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Watermelon Hyaluronic Moisturizer w/ peptides, collagen, & vit C (exclusive)

I've received a lot of questions asking how to use Hyaluronic acid in a moisturizer. So I figured I'd show you how to do that, but I also wanted to make this an anti aging moisturizer that is good for all skin types. This moisturizer is very light weight and is perfect for those hot summer days when you aren't looking for a heavy moisturizer, but still want a boost of hydration and your daily vitamin C.


Formula;

water phase

  • 66% distilled water

oil phase

  • 5% watermelon oil

  • 5% caprylic capric triglyceride

  • 6% ritamulse SCG / ecomulse

  • 3% cetyl alcohol

cool down phase

  • 0.5% ULMW hyaluronic acid

  • 7% glycerin

  • 1% hexapeptide 1 ECT

  • 2% vegetable collagen

  • 2% viola tricolor extract

  • 2% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (vitamin C)

  • 0.5% liquid germall plus


Directions;

  • combine all ingredients in the water phase in a heat safe beaker

  • combine all ingredients in the oil phase in a heat safe beaker

  • tare scale and take note of the water phase weight as we will be heating it up and some of the water will evaporate, so that will need replaced once it's done heating

  • place both phases in a water bath and heat until everything in oil phase has melted and the water phase is around the same temperature.

  • pour the water phase into the oil phase and blend with a high sheer mixer like an immersion blender.

  • come back and mix periodically until lotion starts to thicken.

  • combine the ULMW hyaluronic acid and glycerin in a beaker and mix until combined, then add in the rest of the ingredients in the cool down phase except for the tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (this is oil soluble and we will add at the end of the formulation)

  • mix until combined

  • once your lotion is 100° f or cooler pour in the cool down phase and mix until combined. Then add in the tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and mix

  • check pH and adjust to around 4.5 - 5.5

pH adjusting; I didn't need to adjust the pH. The natural pH was 4.95


Benefits/Purpose of each ingredient

watermelon oil - has moisturizing regenerating and restoring properties. It is a very light weight oil and quick absorbing.

caprylic capric triglyceride - non-greasy and light weight. It comes in the form of an oily liquid and mainly works as an emollient, dispersing agent and solvent. Is an emollient ester and similar to plant oils since it has an oily texture, but is much more light weight and far less greasy. It has a dry, silky oil, feel that is almost powdery because it is still present on the skin but not greasy. This ingredient is great for creating oil free moisturizers. You can remove the watermelon oil from this formula to get an oil free moisturizer.

ritamulse SCG / ecomulse - all in one emulsifier. used to blend oil and water together and also thicken product to create a lotion consistency. is an ecocert emulsifier approved for organic formulations.

cetyl alcohol - emollient that moisturizes skin, stabilizes emulsion and thickens lotion.

ULMW hyaluronic acid - helps plump, hydrate, and make skin more youthful and healthy. HA is the natural gel between skin cells that serves as a water reservoir for the cells. As we age, skin loses hyaluronic acid and the ability to hold sufficient water in this reservoir. Feeding new hyaluronic acid to skin may help hydrate skin's inter-cellular reservoir, raising skin's moisture level, and smoothing down age lines. A low molecular weight hyaluronic acid is able to penetrate the skin deeper than a high molecular weight hyaluronic acid. Also a low molecular weight hyaluronic acid won't thicken water, but a high molecular weight hyaluronic acid with thicken water into a gel.

glycerin - humectant that hydrates the skin. It is also being used in the cool down phase because hyaluronic acid works best when it is first mixed into a solvent, such as glycerin. This way the hyaluronic acid is dispersed into the formula easier.

hexapeptide 1 ECT - Saccharomyces cerevisiae is cultured in an amino acid rich environment; following fermentation FSS Hexapeptide 1 is isolated using various filtration techniques. FSS Hexapeptide 1 may be useful for a variety of anti-aging benefits such as increasing skin tone and elasticity and may also improve skin hydration. FSS Hexapeptide 1 may also increase ATP synthesis. Overall cellular efficiency may be increased by improving the cell’s ATP levels.

vegetable collagen - plant-derived alternative. anti aging, improves skin elasticity, conditioning, moisturizing.

viola tricolor extract - may help increase the concentration of hyaluronic acid within the epidermis to enhance the skins water binding properties

tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (vitamin C) - very stable, oil soluble vitamin C ester. Has excellent skin penetration and as a result offers increased cell protection against UV-B. The skin cell viability is increased up to 30% when compared with l-ascorbic acid. Can improve appearance of aged and fragile skin. Widely used as add-on ingredient in skin-lightening products to correct hyperpigmentation and age spots

liquid germall plus - preservative


Substitutions;

  • watermelon oil - any oil you would like. You could also use a butter, it will just increase the viscosity of the moisturizer.

  • caprylic capric triglyceride - any oil, emollient ester or butter. May change the feel of product. if you have oily skin try replacing the watermelon oil with caprylic capric triglyceride for an oil free moisturizer. If you have really dry skin replace this oil with a heavier oil like apricot kernel oil or any oil that your skin seems to like.

  • ritamulse SCG /ecomulse - emulsifying wax NF, BTMS 50, or any other all in one emulsifier. Changing emulsifier will change the viscosity and feel or product.

  • cetyl alcohol - cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearic acid or any other fatty acid or fatty alcohol

  • ULMW hyaluronic acid - any low molecular weight hyaluronic acid should work. Do not use a high molecular weight HA it will make the moisturizer an awful texture and not feel good on the skin. If you don't have HA you can leave it out or add in some DL panthenol into the cool down phase for more hydration.

  • glycerin - propanedial, sodium PCA, propylene glycol or other humectant

  • hexapeptide 1 ECT - you can leave out or replace with a different peptide you may have like Pisum Sativum Peptide. Formulator sample shop sells a bunch of different peptides. As long as it is water soluble it should work in this formula. You could also use a different anti aging ingredient thats wate soluble or use your favorite extract or just replace this ingredient with water.

  • vegetable collagen - you could use regular collagen, replace with a different water soluble ingredient like extracts, DL panthenol, etc. or just use water in place of it.

  • viola tricolor extract - replace with your favorite extract.

  • tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (vitamin C) - You could use a different vitamin C ingredient like vitamin C liposome from FSS or 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate which is another vitamin C ester from lotion crafter. Or just replace with your favorite extract or distilled water.

  • liquid germall plus - any water soluble broad spectrum preservative. Tristate ECO, geogard ECT, euxyl K 903, etc.




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