Dual Cream+Gel Moisturizer w/ Natural Ingredients - Exclusive 4/26
- taralee

- 6 days ago
- 5 min read
Product I was inspired by


Formulated w/ Natural Ingredients.
Gel Formula for ‘Dual Cream + Gel’
Phase A
0.8% Xanthan Gum
0.2% ULMW Hyaluronic Acid
5% Glycerin
5% Propanediol
Phase B
79.5% Distilled Water
2% REGener-AGE™ INCI: Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein, Oxido Reductases
0.5% Liquid Germall Plus (INCI: Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate)
Directions;
In a sanitized beaker begin by combining all the ingredients in phase A and mixing until the powder is no longer clumpy.

In another sanitized container combine all the ingredients in phase B and mix.
Next, slowly pour phase B into phase A while mixing. You should now have a thickened gel and it will thicken up a bit and clear up by the next day.

If desired, add in a water soluble colorant. You can puchase water soluble colorants here.

Benefits / Uses of Ingredients;
Xanthan Gum - gelling agent
ULMW Hyaluronic Acid - humectant
Glycerin - humectant
Propylene Glycol - humectant
Propanediol - humectant
Distilled Water - diluent
Green Tea Extract (Water Soluble) - antioxidant
REGener-AGE™ INCI: Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein, Oxido Reductases - this blend says to help strengthen capillary function, enhance microcirculation, and helps reduce the appearance of stagnant fluid under eyes. Said to help support firmness and elasticity.
Liquid Germall Plus (INCI: Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate) - Preservative
Substitutes;
Keep in mind that these are just suggestions. Formula may not hold up as well, but may still hold up enough for DIY personal use. Use only cosmetic grade ingredients.
Xanthan Gum - Sepimax Zen / Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Sepinov EMT 10, Aristroflex AVC, HMW Hyaluronic Acid
ULMW Hyaluronic Acid - any other form of Hyaluornic Acid would work here. If you use HMW Hyaluronic Acid keep in mind that this will thicken your formula.
Glycerin - Propanediol, Propylene Glycol or other humectant of choice
Propylene Glycol - Propanediol, Glycerin, or other humectant of choice
Propanediol - Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, or other humectant of choice
Distilled Water - hydrosol or aloe vera gel (these usually have a lower pH, this can effect the viscosity of the gel.
Green Tea Extract (Water Soluble) - any water soluble extract of choice.
REGener-AGE™ INCI: Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein, Oxido Reductases - no sub, but can use any water soluble ingredient here instead.
Liquid Germall Plus (INCI: Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate) - Learn all about preservatives HERE to figure out which would be the right choice for your formula. e.g. Euxyl PE 9010, Opiphen Plus, Geogard ECT. Keep in mind changing the preservative could change the clarity of the product. Some preservatives also need mixed with a solubilizer of solvent to mix into water. Make adjustments to the formula if needed to accommodate a different preservative.
Formulated w/ Natural Ingredients.
Lotion Formula for ‘Dual Cream + Gel’
Phase A
76% Distilled Water
5% Glycerin
Phase B
3% Olivem 1000 (INCI: Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate)
Phase C
Directions;
In a heat safe and sanitized container mix together the phase A ingredients.

Tare scale and write down how much phase A weighs. (Including the beakers weight too) we are going to heat everything up and some of the water is going to evaporate. We will need to replace that water loss after it’s heated.
Combine all ingredients in phase B in a separate heat safe sanitized container.
Fill a pan with about an inch of water and place it over your stove top on medium heat. (this is called a water bath)

Cover both phase A and phase B with foil and place in the water bath.
Heat until phase B has melted and both phases are around the same temperature. 70°C/158°F Olivem 1000 is a little trickier to melt. You will need to mix it periodically to help it melt and keep it between 70°C-80°C for about 5-10 minutes in order to get it to melt fully.
Now remove phase A from heat and place on scale and replace any water that evaporated. Normally it's about 1 gram or less.
Remove phase B from heat and then pour phase A into phase B. (Pour water phase into oil phase)
Immediately mix with an immersion blender/stick blender. & Let Cool (don’t mix with immersion blender again once it starts to thicken. This can add too much air into the lotion)

Once phase A/B has cooled to 104°F / 40°C add in the Liquid Germall Plus and Vitamin E Acetate & mix. (Don’t mix with the immersion blender)
Let sit overnight covered with Plastic Wrap to fully cool before adding into jar.

Packaging
I poured both the gel and the lotion into piping bags and filled my jars that way.

Benefits / Uses of Ingredients;
Distilled Water - diluent
Glycerin - humectant that hydrates the skin
Olivem 1000 - emulsifier that blends oil and water together. This is considered natural and ecocert.
Glyceryl Stearate - co emulsifier. Has a low HLB and can help lower the soaping effect. Check out my post to learn more about HLB and my other post to learn more about reducing soaping in lotion
Cetearyl Alcohol - co emulsifier that helps stabilize emulsions. Learn more about co emulsifiers and methods to stabilize emulsions HERE.
Caprylic Carpric Triglyceride - emollient that moisturizes the skin.
Liquid Germall Plus - preservative.
Substitutes;
Keep in mind that these are just suggestions. Formula may not hold up as well, but may still hold up enough for DIY personal use. Use only cosmetic grade ingredients.
Distilled Water - aloe vera liquid or hydrosols, may change pH of product.
Glycerin - Propanediol, Propylene Glycol or other humectant of choice
Olivem 1000 - Ritamulse SCG/EcoMulse, Emulsifying Wax NF, Montanov 68 MB, or other all in one emulsifier.
Glyceryl Stearate - Has a low HLB and can help lower the soaping effect. Check out my post to learn more about HLB and my other post to learn more about reducing soaping in lotion. You can try adding in Sorbitan Olivate, or using Dimethicone if you want to reduce soaping, otherwise you can use another co emulsifier like more Cetearyl Alcohol, or using Cetyl Alcohol or other fatty alcohol.
Cetearyl Alcohol - Cetyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol or other co emulsifier like Stearic Acid Learn more about co emulsifiers and methods to stabilize emulsions HERE.
Caprylic Carpric Triglyceride - any natural oil or other emollient of choice.
Liquid Germall Plus - Learn all about preservatives HERE to figure out which would be the right choice for your formula. e.g. Euxyl PE 9010, Opiphen Plus, Geogard ECT. Keep in mind changing the preservative could destabilize emulsion, do tests first.
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