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Skin Repair Face Cream w/ Vitamin C, E, Peptides, Collagen, & Hyaluronic Acid (exclusive)

Updated: Oct 4, 2023

I recently was asked by a patron to recommend some heavier face moisturizers for the winter months. I realized I've never shared any formulas like that so I decided to take my favorite face moisturizer formula that I've shared and alter it to a face cream. You can see that previous blog here or watch the video here

I increased the percentage of ritamulse SCG from 6% to 8% and increased the percentage of cetyl alcohol from 3% to 5%. Increasing both of these will thicken the product to a cream consistency and they are both emollients so they moisturize the skin. I also decided to get rid of the caprylic capric triglyceride and use something a little heavier. I went with papaya oil because I've been obsessed with it. You can use whatever oil you want. I also added in 5% shea butter to add more moisture and to make the cream thicker. I also added in vitamin E simply because I forgot to put it in the formula the first time around. I did make a mistake by packaging the product in a clear jar. You should use something that keeps the product safe from light since this product contains vitamin C and vitamin C is light sensitive. An amber jar would be best.


Formula;

water phase

  • 57% distilled water

oil phase

  • 5% watermelon oil

  • 5% papaya oil

  • 5% shea butter

  • 8% ritamulse SCG / ecomulse

  • 5% cetyl alcohol

cool down phase

  • 0.5% ULMW hyaluronic acid

  • 7% glycerin

  • 1% hexapeptide 1 ECT

  • 2% vegetable collagen

  • 2% viola tricolor extract

  • 2% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (vitamin C)

  • 0.5% liquid germall plus

  • 0.2% vitamin E

Directions;

  • combine all ingredients in the water phase in a heat safe beaker

  • combine all ingredients in the oil phase in a heat safe beaker

  • tare scale and take note of the water phase weight as we will be heating it up and some of the water will evaporate, so that will need replaced once it's done heating

  • place both phases in a water bath and heat until everything in the oil phase has melted and the water phase is around the same temperature.

  • weigh the water phase and replace any water that evaporated

  • come back and mix periodically until c starts to thicken.sheer mixer like an immersion blender.

  • come back and mix periodically until cream starts to thicken.

  • while cream cools, combine the ULMW hyaluronic acid and glycerin in a beaker and mix until combined, then add in the rest of the ingredients in the cool down phase except for the tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate & vitamin E (these are oil soluble and we will add them at the end of the formulation)

  • mix until combined

  • once your lotion is 100° f or cooler pour in the cool down phase and mix until combined. Then add in the tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate & vitamin E and mix

  • check pH and adjust to around 4.5 - 5.5

pH adjusting; I didn't need to adjust the pH. The natural pH was 5


Benefits/Purpose of each ingredient

watermelon oil - has moisturizing regenerating and restoring properties. It is a very light weight oil and quick absorbing.

papaya oil - high in vitamins A, C, & E. helps firm skin remove blemishes and even skin tone.

shea butter - serves as a great moisturizer.

ritamulse SCG / ecomulse - all in one emulsifier. used to blend oil and water together and also thicken product to create a lotion consistency. is an ecocert emulsifier approved for organic formulations.

cetyl alcohol - emollient that moisturizes skin, stabilizes emulsion and thickens lotion.

ULMW hyaluronic acid - helps plump, hydrate, and make skin more youthful and healthy. HA is the natural gel between skin cells that serves as a water reservoir for the cells. As we age, skin loses hyaluronic acid and the ability to hold sufficient water in this reservoir. Feeding new hyaluronic acid to skin may help hydrate skin's inter-cellular reservoir, raising skin's moisture level, and smoothing down age lines. A low molecular weight hyaluronic acid is able to penetrate the skin deeper than a high molecular weight hyaluronic acid. Also a low molecular weight hyaluronic acid won't thicken water, but a high molecular weight hyaluronic acid with thicken water into a gel.

glycerin - humectant that hydrates the skin. It is also being used in the cool down phase because hyaluronic acid works best when it is first mixed into a solvent, such as glycerin. This way the hyaluronic acid is dispersed into the formula easier.

hexapeptide 1 ECT - Saccharomyces cerevisiae is cultured in an amino acid rich environment; following fermentation FSS Hexapeptide 1 is isolated using various filtration techniques. FSS Hexapeptide 1 may be useful for a variety of anti-aging benefits such as increasing skin tone and elasticity and may also improve skin hydration. FSS Hexapeptide 1 may also increase ATP synthesis. Overall cellular efficiency may be increased by improving the cell’s ATP levels.

vegetable collagen - plant-derived alternative. anti aging, improves skin elasticity, conditioning, moisturizing.

viola tricolor extract - may help increase the concentration of hyaluronic acid within the epidermis to enhance the skins water binding properties

tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (vitamin C) - very stable, oil soluble vitamin C ester. Has excellent skin penetration and as a result offers increased cell protection against UV-B. The skin cell viability is increased up to 30% when compared with l-ascorbic acid. Can improve appearance of aged and fragile skin. Widely used as add-on ingredient in skin-lightening products to correct hyperpigmentation and age spots

liquid germall plus - preservative

vitamin E - antioxidant


Substitutions;

  • watermelon oil - any oil you would like. You could also use a butter, it will just increase the viscosity of the moisturizer.

  • papaya oil - cucumber seed oil has brightening benefits so I think it would be a good alternative, but you can use any oil you'd like.

  • shea butter - mango butter, but any butter would work fine.

  • ritamulse SCG /ecomulse - emulsifying wax NF, BTMS 50, or any other all in one emulsifier. Changing emulsifier will change the viscosity and feel or product.

  • cetyl alcohol - cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearic acid or any other fatty acid or fatty alcohol

  • ULMW hyaluronic acid - any low molecular weight hyaluronic acid should work. Do not use a high molecular weight HA it will make the moisturizer an awful texture and not feel good on the skin. If you don't have HA you can leave it out or add in some DL panthenol into the cool down phase for more hydration.

  • glycerin - propanedial, sodium PCA, propylene glycol or other humectant

  • hexapeptide 1 ECT - you can leave out or replace with a different peptide you may have like Pisum Sativum Peptide. Formulator sample shop sells a bunch of different peptides. As long as it is water soluble it should work in this formula. You could also use a different anti aging ingredient thats wate soluble or use your favorite extract or just replace this ingredient with water.

  • vegetable collagen - you could use regular collagen, replace with a different water soluble ingredient like extracts, DL panthenol, etc. or just use water in place of it.

  • viola tricolor extract - replace with your favorite extract.

  • tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (vitamin C) - You could use a different vitamin C ingredient like vitamin C liposome from FSS or 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate which is another vitamin C ester from lotion crafter. Or just replace with your favorite extract or distilled water.

  • liquid germall plus - any water soluble broad spectrum preservative. Tristate ECO, geogard ECT, euxyl K 903, etc.

  • vitamin E - no sub




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