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Purple Shampoo (whipped / creamy shampoo w/ oils)- Exclusive

I was on instagram the other day and I got a sponsored post of a Shampoo Crème from Up Circle Beauty, which I've never heard of before, but I thought it was super cool idea and a fun twist on a shampoo. I also have had a lot of people ask me to make a shampoo with oil and I also needed some more purple shampoo to help keep my hair from looking too brassy. So that is what inspired this shampoo. You can easily leave of the violet No.2 to make this a shampoo that doesn't tone and you can add in different additives like extracts, proteins, or conditioning agents like honeyquat or Polyquaternium-78 to suit your hair needs. I'll talk more about each ingredient and why I used them below. Something I do want to mention about this Shampoo Crème is that it does have to be in a jar, meaning there is a high chance of getting water in it, so I recommend using a scoop to scoop out the shampoo, do not use your wet hands, and make sure you close the jar after grabbing out your shampoo so water doesn't get in the jar.


Formula

Phase A

  • 5% Glycerin

  • 1% Xanthan Gum Soft

  • 39.2% Distilled Water

Phase B

  • 30% SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate)

  • 6% Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Phase C

  • 5% Jojoba Oil

  • 1% Glyceryl Oleate

Phase D

  • 4% Distilled Water

  • 2% DL Panthenol

  • 0.5% Liquid Germall Plus

  • 3% Active.Lite® Hair for Bleaching

  • 2% Plant Keratin

  • 0.3% Violet No. 2 External D&C

  • 1% Fragrance Oil

700 gram recipe

Phase A

  • 35 grams Glycerin

  • 7 grams Xanthan Gum Soft

  • 274.4 grams Distilled Water

Phase B

  • 210 grams SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate)

  • 42 grams Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Phase C

  • 35 grams Jojoba Oil

  • 7 grams Glyceryl Oleate

Phase D

  • 28 grams Distilled Water

  • 14 grams DL Panthenol

  • 3.5 grams Liquid Germall Plus

  • 21 grams Active.Lite® Hair for Bleaching

  • 14 grams Plant Keratin

  • 2.1 grams Violet No. 2 External D&C

  • 7 grams Fragrance Oil

Directions;

  • Combine all ingredient in phase A starting with the Glycerin and Xanthan Gum Soft. Mix the two together before pouring in the Distilled Water. Mix until you have a thick gel.

  • In a heat safe container combine the ingredients in phase B and mix. Make sure you are wearing a respirator when working with SCI. This stuff is a very fine powder and you do not want to breathe it in.

  • The SCI and Cocamidopropyl betaine will be a bit hard to mix together, but try to mix them together as much as possible first. I used a spatula here.

  • Next you can pour phase A into phase B and gently mix. Again, I used a spatula to mix.

  • Place phase A/B in a water bath (fill a pan with about an inch of water and place on stove top on medium heat)

  • Mix phase A/B periodically to help dissolve the SCI. Heating up phase A/B will allow it to soften, making it easier to mix all the ingredients together.

  • While phase A/B heat we can weigh out phase C.

  • In a separate container combine both ingredients in phase C and mix.

  • At this time we still have A/B in the water bath. So while it's still in the water bath pour phase C into phase A/B and mix.

  • Remove from heat and set to the side to cool.

  • Grab another beaker and combine all ingredients in phase D and mix until DL panthenol is fully dissolved. (I left out the fragrance oil and violet no.2)

  • I weighed out the Violet No 2 separately on a watch glass.

  • Once phase A/B/C has cooled you can pour in your phase D and mix to combine.

  • Next I added in the violet No. 2 and mixed until combined.

  • Then added in the fragrance oil and mixed.

  • I covered this with plastic wrap and let it sit overnight.

  • The next day I took the pH, which was 4.62 (our hairs pH is the same as our skin 4.5 - 5.5 so I did not adjust the pH. I still recommend checking the pH of your product if you make this.)

  • I then whipped the shampoo with a hand mixed for a few seconds to soften it up to make it easier to pipe.

  • I transferred into a piping bag and filled my jars. (see video)


Benefits/Purpose of each ingredient

Glycerin - hydrates hair

Xanthan Gum Soft - thickens the water phase which will help stabilize the emulsion and help with thickening the product.

SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate) - anionic surfactant (this is the main ingredient that is cleansing the hair and scalp and creating lather and bubbles) This is a powdered surfactant that is extremely mild on the skin and is commonly used in baby products because it's so gentle. It also has a lower pH which makes it easier to work with compared to some other surfactants which have high pH levels that need lowered.

Cocamidopropyl Betaine - amphoteric surfactant which is commonly paired with an anionic surfactant in shampoos and body washes. This is a liquid surfactant and it helps with dissolving the SCI. It also helps with cleansing the skin and producing lather and foam.

Jojoba Oil - helps moisturize the hair

Glyceryl Oleate - a re-fatting agent and can be found in our hair lipids and skin lipids. It can help improve surfactant systems (shampoos, body washes, face washes, etc) by making them feel more moisturizing, soft, conditioning, gentle, and overall more luxurious. This ingredient is also a low HLB emulsifier, so if you've bene looking for one of those, this is it. It has emulsifying properties for oil in water emulsions and water in oil emulsions.

DL Panthenol - film former that increases shine while hydrating the hair strand to be more elastic, more manageable, and healthier. It can thicken the hair shaft, making hair appear thicker.

Liquid Germall Plus - preservative

Active.Lite® Hair for Bleaching - can help protect, moisturize and strengthen your hair and has been specifically formulated for those with bleached damaged hair. This is made with Polyquaternium-80, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein & Selaginella Lepidophylla Extract. Would be great to add into heat protectants, conditioners, hair masks or anything to help repair, strengthen, or protect hair.

Plant Keratin - keratin is the protein our hair is made up of. So this can help keep hair strong and healthy

Violet No. 2 External D&C - this is the dye that helps tone your hair.


Substitutions;

substituting ingredients will change the final feel, viscosity, and overall effect of final product. percentages and formulating procedure may need to change with substitutions. these substitution suggestions are just suggestions and have not been tested to work.

SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate) - Sodium Coco Sulfate Powder, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate Powder, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSa) Powder I don't know if any of these will work for sure. I've never tried any of these in place of the SCI. You will also need to make sure you lower the pH with most of these surfactants too.

Cocamidopropyl Betaine - any amphoteric liquid surfactant like Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Coco Betaine, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Lauramidopropyl Betaine should work, but idk since I haven't tried them

Jojoba Oil - any oil of choice

Glyceryl Oleate - this is the only refatting agent I've used, so you can try a different one, but I'm not sure how it will turn out in comparison. E.g FSS Sucrose Cocoate

DL Panthenol - you could use a different humectant like propanediol 1,3 or any water soluble ingredient you would like or just leave out.

Liquid Germall Plus - any water soluble preservative; e.g. optiphen ND, optiphen plus, euxyl PE 9010, geogard ECT, Geogard 221, Euxyl K 903, Tristate Eco, etc. Make sure you adjust the pH accordingly.

Active.Lite® Hair for Bleaching - any water soluble ingredient like extracts, hydrolyzed proteins, or conditioning agents (make sure if it's a conditioning agent that it's compatible with anionic surfactants) honeyquat or Polyquaternium-78 are good options.

Plant Keratin - you can leave out of use a different water soluble ingredient in place of this.

Violet No. 2 External D&C - you can leave out if you don't need to tone your hair.





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