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How to make Brightening Alpha Arbutin Moisturizer

Updated: May 13, 2022


All ingredients in this formula are naturally derived or Ecocert approved except for the preservative, liquid germall plus


Formula;

phase A

phase B

phase C

Directions;

  • combine all ingredients in phase A and mix until sodium phytate dissolves

  • in a separate container combine all ingredients in phase B

  • take note of how much phase A weights (some water will evaporate when heated and may need to be replaced)

  • cover both beakers with some foil and place both phase A and B into a water bath and heat until everything melts in phase B.

  • while A/B heat, take another beaker and weight out all the ingredients in phase C except for the vitamin E.

  • mix until both the niacinamide and arbutin dissolve.

  • set aside until needed

  • once both phases A & B are around the same temperature pour phase A into phase B.

  • immediately mix with a high sheer mixer like an immersion blender.

  • let cool to 100°f/40°c then you can add in phase C including the vitamin E.

  • mix until combine.

  • check ph and adjust to around 6.

  • let return to room temperature and cover and let sit over night

  • pour into desired container the next day.

ph sensitive ingredients;

alpha arbutin needs to be in a ph between 3.5 - 6.6 and niacinamide needs to be in a ph around 6. I had to use a 10% lye solution to raise the ph of my moisturizer. The natural ph was 5.03 and would be fine if the product didn't contain niacinamide. So I raised the ph by adding in 0.11 grams or 7 drops of a diluted solution of 10% sodium hydroxide in 90% distilled water. I talk all about ph and how to raise and lower ph in this video here


Benefits/Purpose of each ingredient


glycerin - humectant that hydrates the skin


sodium phytate - chelating agent. Read more about it here


montanov 68 MB - "a non-ionic, liquid crystal emulsifier based on the HLB system. Liquid crystal emulsifiers create a lamellar or bilayered structure that mimics the lipid bilayers in our stratum corneum, which may help actives or lipids from our lotions penetrate our skin easier. They also help reduce transepidermal water loss as the lotions hold more water in contact with the skin for a longer period of time." According to lotion crafter


cetyl alcohol - emulsion stabilizer, thickener, and emollient


rosehip seed oil - Trans-retinoic acid is a natural form of vitamin A naturally found in rosehip seed oil. vitamin -A has been found to help treat acne along with signs of aging. said to help reduce irritation


papaya oil - high in vitamins A, C, & E. helps firm skin remove blemishes and even skin tone.


alpha arbutin - "It is the more effective, faster and safer approach to promoting skin-brightening and an even skin tone on all skin types. also minimizes liver spots and meets all the requirements of a modern skin-brightening and skin depigmentation product." According to lotioncrafter


niacinamide - very effective skin-restoring ingredient that offers multiple benefits for aging skin. Among these benefits is the ability to visibly improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, dullness, and helps improve the overall appearance of the skin. Pairs perfectly with alpha arbutin.


licorice extract - has a gentle brightening and soothing action. it helps fade sun damage and hyper-pigmentation safely for all skin tones, while blocking melanin production to prevent more from forming.


FSS Pisum Sativum Peptide - PEA Protein - moisturizer, soothing, film former, rich in antioxidants.


liquid germall plus - preservative


vitamin E - antioxidant


Substitutions;

substituting ingredients will change the final feel, viscosity, and overall effect of final product. percentages and formulating procedure may need to change with substitutions.

  • glycerin - propanedial, propylene glycol or other humectant

  • sodium phytate - Disodium EDTA or other chelating agent. You could also leave out.

  • montanov 68 MB - emulsifying wax NF, ritamulse SCG, Olivem 1000, polawax or any other waxy emulsifier

  • cetyl alcohol - cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid, behenyl alcohol, or another fatty alcohol or fatty acid.

  • rosehip seed oil - any other liquid plant oil or liquid emollient ester

  • papaya oil - any other liquid plant oil or liquid emollient ester

  • alpha arbutin - no sub

  • niacinamide - no sub, but you can leave out

  • licorice extract - any extract you would like

  • FSS Pisum Sativum Peptide - wheat protein, rice protein, baobab protein, or any other hydrolyzed protein.

  • liquid germall plus - any other water soluble preservative like euxyl k 903, optiphen plus, euxyl PE 9010, geogard ECT, tristate eco, etc.

  • vitamin E - no sub, but you can leave out or use some green tea extract for added antioxidants.





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