How to Make Bakuchiol Cream (natural retinol alternative)
- taralee

- Sep 29, 2023
- 2 min read
Formula
phase A
65% distilled water
5% glycerin
phase B
8% emulsifying wax
10% apricot kernel oil
phase C
2% DL panthenol
5% distilled water
phase D
3% Bakuchi Oil
1% geogard 221
1% vitamin E
400 gram Recipe;
phase A
260 grams distilled water
20 grams glycerin
phase B
32 grams emulsifying wax
40 grams apricot kernel oil
phase C
8 grams DL panthenol
20 grams distilled water
phase D
12 grams Bakuchi Oil
4 grams geogard 221
4 grams vitamin E
Directions;
Combine phase A in a heat safe beaker.
Combine phase B in a heat safe beaker.
Tare scale and weight phase A. Take not of the weight. We will be heating it up and some of the water will evaporate and we will need to replace that water after heating.
Create a water bath by filling a pan with about an inch of water and place over medium heat.
Place both phase A and B in the water bath and heat until phase B is melted and phase A is around the same temperature.
Once phase A is around the same temperature as phase B and phase B is melted, you can remove from heat.
Before pouring phase A into phase B make sure you replace any water in phase A that evaporated.
Then after you poured phase A into phase B, you can mix with an immersion blender.
Let phase A/B cool.
While phase A/B cool combine phase C ingredients in a separate container and mix until all powder is dissolved.
Once phase A/B are around 100 degrees fahrenheit, you can pour phase C into phase A/B and mix until combined.
Lastly add in the phase D ingredients and mix.
Let sit overnight before pouring into jars.
Natural pH was 4.54 so no pH adjustment was needed. I still recommend checking the pH if you make it though.
Benefits/Purpose of each ingredient
glycerin - humectant that hydrates the skin. can also help with the glitter staying on the skin.
apricot kernel oil - emollient (moisturize the skin)
emulsifying wax - emulsifier (it blends water and oil together) it also helps thick the moisturizer to create the cream texture.
DL panthenol - vitamim B5 humectant that hydrates the skin
Bakuchi Oil - Bakuchi Oil contains essential fatty acids and contains 3-5% bakuchiol. Bakuchiol has claimed the title “natural alternative to retinol” without having any of the negatives associated with retinol like irritation. Bakuchiol can help keep skin soft and healthy looking and has been said to help with signs of aging, stimulate collage, and improve skin tone.
geogard 221 - preservative
vitamin E - antioxidant
Substitutions;
substituting ingredients will change the final feel, viscosity, and overall effect of final product. percentages and formulating procedure may need to change with substitutions. these substitution suggestions are just suggestions and have not been tested to work.
apricot kernel oil - any plant oil of choice
emulsifying wax - any other waxy emulsifier of choice. Emulsifying wax NF, Ecomulse / Ritamulse SCG, Olivem 1000 or Montanov 68 MB
DL panthenol - no sub, but this is a humectant so you could replace it with another humectant like hyaluronic acid, sodium PCA, urea, sorbitol, propanedial, or other humectant of choice.
Bakuchi Oil - no sub
geogard 221 - any water soluble preservative; e.g., liquid germall plus, optiphen plus, geogard ECT, Euxyl K 903, Tristate Eco, Euxyl PE 9010, optiphen ND etc.
vitamin E - no sub, but you can leave out or use another ingredient with antioxidants like reishi mushroom extract, strawberry extract, or green tea extract.




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