How to Make 5% Mandelic Serum & Raise pH
Updated: Jul 29
Tips for formulating with Mandelic Acid
I first formulated this product without out the pH adjusting solution. The pH was around 2. Since that was too low to be safe for the skin, I needed to raise the pH.
I added in a few drops of the pH adjusting solution at a time and kept track of how much I added until I reached my desired pH level (3.5-4). Then I rewrote the formula with the necessary amount of pH adjusting solution.
5% Mandelic Serum Formula;
Phase A
68.5% Distilled Water
1% Ginseng Extract (Water Soluble)
15% pH Adjusting Solution (10% Arginine Powder + 90% Distilled Water)
Phase B
Phase C
0.5% Sepimax Zen (INCI: Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6)
0.5% Squalane
Directions;
In a sanitized container, mix together the phase A ingredients in order, mixing until the Mandelic Acid is fully dissolved.
In a separate sanitized container, mix together the phase B ingredients and pour into phase A and mix.
Sprinkle the Sepimax Zen on top, cover with plastic wrap, and let sit overnight. The next day, mix, add in the Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride & Squalane, mix until fully incorporated.
Check pH (should be between 3 - 4.)
Pour into desired bottle.
Packaging I used: They are no longer available. Here are some similar ones
How to use; Apply a few drops onto clean dry skin. Use after cleanser, but before moisturizer. Use in the PM and wear SPF for up to a week after use to protect skin from sun damage. You should always wear SPF but mandelic acid will make your skin extra sensitive to UV damage.
Benefits / Uses of Ingredients;
Distilled Water - diluent / solvent
Mandelic Acid - Alpha Hydroxy Acid(AHA), helps exfoliate skin and is a more gentle AHA due to being a larger molecule that does not penetrate skin as much as other AHAs. Great for sensitive acne prone skin. Said to help combat breakouts and hyperpigmentation.
Ginseng Extract - said to offer skin anti-aging benefits, boost collagen and is full of antioxidant.
pH Adjusting Solution (10% Arginine Powder + 90% Distilled Water) - raises the pH
Propanediol - humectant and used to help solubilize the Phenoxyethanol & Ethyhexylglycerin.
Glycerin - humectant and used to help solubilize the Phenoxyethanol & Ethyhexylglycerin.
Phenoxyethanol & Ethyhexylglycerin - preservative
Sepimax Zen (INCI: Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6) - gelling agent and emulsifier.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride - light weight emollient that moisturizes skin.
Squalane - skin identical emollient often used for acne prone skin that moisturizes skin.
Substitutes;
Keep in mind that these are just suggestions. Formula may not hold up as well, but may still hold up enough for DIY personal use. Use only cosmetic grade ingredients.
Distilled Water - Rose Hydrosol, or other hydrosol or choice or aloe vera liquid.
Mandelic Acid - no sub
Ginseng Extract - any water soluble extract of choice.
Glycerin - humectant
pH Adjusting Solution (10% Arginine Powder + 90% Distilled Water) - 10% Sodium hydroxide solution dissolved in 90% distilled water
Phenoxyethanol & Ethyhexylglycerin - Optiphen Plus. Learn all about preservatives HERE to figure out which would be the right choice for your formula.
Sepimax Zen (INCI: Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6) - Xanthan Gum, Sepinov EMT 10 (INCI: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer), Solagum AX (INCI: Acacia Senegel Gum (and) Xanthan Gum)
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride - any emollient or plant oil of choice.
Squalane - any emollient or plant oil of choice.
- this is a natural method to raise the pH of your cosmetics.
Formula;
10% Arginine Powder
90% Distilled Water
Directions; Mix together the Arginine Powder and distilled water until fully dissolved.
Storage; Keep in an air tight container and store in a cool dark area. No need to add a preservative. Keeps for 1 month.
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