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Ferulic Acid Vitamin C & E Gel Moisturizer (exclusive)

Updated: May 13, 2022


Formulated for all skin types. A light weight moisturizer packed full of antioxidants, and hydrating and moisturizing ingredients.


Formula;

phase A (oil phase)

phase B (water phase)

Directions;

  • start by mixing together the caprylic capric triglyceride and ferulic acid together and mix to dissolve the ferulic acid. It may not dissolve completely, but mix in the best you can. Then add in the rest of the ingredients in order adding in the gelmaker NAT last and mix everything together.

  • in a separate beaker mix together all the ingredients in phase B

  • pour the water phase into the oil phase and mix with an immersion blender.

  • adjust ph and pour into container.

ph sensitive ingredients in formula;

Vitamin C, 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate is the only ph sensitive ingredient in this formula. It is active in a ph between 2.0 to 5.0. Ferulic acid is active as long as the ph is 7 or below. So make sure you have the ph somewhere between 4.5-5.0


Natural PH of product - around 5.29. I added in 7 drops of a 50% citric acid solution diluted in 50% distilled water and go the ph down to 4.51.

If you don't know how to take and adjust ph you can watch my video here to learn how.


Benefits/Purpose of each ingredient

ferulic acid - is a natural antioxidant in plants. it is soluble in oils up to 0.2% and practically insoluble in water. It is an anti aging agent and works even better when paired with vitamin C & E, which is why I added both of those ingredients to this moisturizer. Ferulic acid prevents damage to skin cells caused by ultra violet light, has anti-irritant properties, & may have whitening effects.

caprylic capric triglyceride - non greasy and light weight. It comes in the form of an oily liquid and mainly works as an emollient, dispersing agent and solvent. It is an emollient ester and similar to plant oils since it has an oily texture, but is much more light weight and far less greasy. It has a dry, silky oil, feel that is almost powdery because it is still present on the skin but not greasy.

rosehip seed oil - Trans-retinoic acid is a natural form of vitamin A naturally found in rosehip seed oil. vitamin -A has been found to help treat acne along with signs of aging and said to help reduce irritation.

vitamin E - antioxidant. pairs perfectly with ferulic acid and vitamin C

gelmaker NAT - effective thickener by forming gels that can stabilize up to 35% oil. Gives a smooth, nude skin feel with non-sticky texture

glycerin - humectant that hydrates the skin

ceramide complex - restores the protective barrier function of the skin and offers enhanced delivery and exchange of skin lipids. Ceramide Complex is especially suitable for dry skin, aging skin and sensitive skin.

3-glyceryl ascorbate - is a vitamin C derivative that is more stable than powder-derived vitamin C alternatives. Vitamin C is an antioxidant that helps protect the skin from damaging free radicals. Brightens skin and improves skin regeneration. Conditions and moisturizes the skin. Boosts collagen product and improves skins elasticity.

papaya enzyme - soothes skin irritants and exfoliates dead skin cells.

turmeric extract - may help keep skin soft and smooth, make skin glow, produce a fairer complexion & remove blemishes such as reduce pigmentation.

liquid germall plus - preservative


Substitutions;

substituting ingredients will change the final feel, viscosity, and overall effect of final product. percentages and formulating procedure may need to change with substitutions.

  • ferulic acid acid - no sub

  • caprylic capric triglyceride - coco caprylate, c12-14 alkyl benzoate, or any other emollient ester. You could also use any plant oil you would like.

  • rosehip seed oil - any other plant oil of choice

  • vitamin E - no sub, but you could leave out. You could also use some green tea extract since it is also an antioxidant.

  • gelmaker NAT - gelmaker EMU, gelmaker RHEO. You could also use a waxy emulsifier like ritamulse SCG or emulsifying wax NF paired with cetyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol to create a cream moisturizer.

  • glycerin - propanedial, propylene glycol or other humectant

  • ceramide complex - no sub, but you can leave out if you don't have it and use water in place of this.

  • 3-glyceryl ascorbate - Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) I've never used this, but it seems to be similar. It does need to be in a formula with a ph between 6-7 though. You could also use FSS vitamin C liposome PF or another vitamin C derivative.

  • papaya enzyme - willow bark extract, FSS Pap-Ango Enzyme PBF, or another extract of choice.

  • turmeric extract - any other extract of choice

  • liquid germall plus - any other water soluble preservative like optiphen plus or euxyl PE 9010




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