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Cooling Mint After Sun Body Lotion (exclusive)

Updated: May 13, 2022

Formula;


phase A

phase B

phase C

Directions;

  • start by combining both ingredients in phase A and placing in a water bath to dissolve menthol crystals

  • in a separate beaker weigh out each ingredient in phase B in order stirring and dissolving after each powdered ingredient. The colloidal oatmeal may not dissolve fully until mixed with immersion blender.

  • After adding in the ICE sunflower last, mix with immersion blender until well combine. There may be chunks of ICE sunflower left, but keep blending until they are all gone.

  • once menthol crystals are dissolved in phase A and cooled to 100f/40c add the ingredients in phase C into phase A.

  • pour phase A/C into phase B and mix in

  • check and balance ph between 4.5-5.5

Natural PH of product - around 5.4 No ph adjustment needed


Benefits/Purpose of each ingredient


menthol crystals - Menthol is used in pharmaceutical formulations for its analgesic and cooling effects. It can be used in cosmetics containing peppermint to boost its cooling and freshening effects. Can be dissolved in lightly warmed oils. Will help cool your sunburn and can be used on hot summer days to cool you down.


caprylic capric triglyceride - emollient ester that moisturizes skin. Is much less greasy and oily than plant oils. I recommend an emollient ester like this in this formula instead of a plant oil due to the ICE sunflower not having the best sensory feel. So the addition of an emollient ester makes it feel much more pleasant on the skin.


aloe vera powder 200x - easily dissolved in water to make aloe vera liquid. helps relieve pain and redness of sunburn by reducing inflammation.


colloidal oatmeal - helps soothe stressed, blemished and irritated skin and can even help relieve dry and itchy skin.


glycerin - humectant that hydrates the skin


dl panthenol - aka vitamin B5 provides excellent humectant benefits for restoring and maintaining natural skin moisture.


liquid germall plus - preservative


ICE sunflower - Instant-cold-emulsion powder made of sunflower wax & sodium polyacrylate. Emulsifier is used by being added into the water phase and then mix with an immersion blender then add in the oil phase. Can emulsify up to 10% oil. This emulsifier doesn't have the best sensory feel, but when you use an emollient ester instead of plant oils and add the addition of a silicone it makes the emulsifier much more pleasant to use.


dimethicone - a silicone oil that offers water resistance in skin cream formulations, but primarily it adds slip and glide, reducing tackiness, and adding conditioning properties when used in hair and skin care applications. I added this in the formula to help with the sensory feel due to the not so nice sensory feel ICE sunflower has.


bisabolol - is a naturally occurring active ingredient that accelerates the healing process of skin and protects it from the effects of daily stress. Known to have anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory properties, a-bisabolol has been shown to reduce UV-induced erythema in-vivo. It has also been demonstrated in studies to enhance the dermal penetration of other ingredients, making it a truly versatile active ingredient for skin care products, especially those containing other active ingredients and cosmeceuticals. It also has natural anti-bacterial as well as anti-mycotic properties.


Substitutions;

substituting ingredients will change the final feel, viscosity, and overall effect of final product. percentages and formulating procedure may need to change with substitutions.

  • menthol crystals - no sub

  • caprylic capric triglyceride - c12-14 alkyl benzoate, coco caprylate, squalane or any other emollient ester

  • aloe vera powder 200x - aloe vera liquid (use at a higher percentage)

  • colloidal oatmeal - oatmeal extract

  • glycerin - propanedial, propylene glycol or other humectant

  • dl panthenol - no sub, but you can leave out

  • liquid germall plus - any other water soluble preservative like optiphen plus or euxyl PE 9010

  • ICE sunflower - any other cold process emulsifier. You could also use a hot process emulsifier like ritamulse SCG, olivem 1000, emulsifying wax NF, or any other waxy emulsifier.

  • bisabolol - chamomile extract

  • dimethicone - cyclomethicone, luxglide N350




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