top of page
Search

Comparing BTMS 50 to Varisoft EQ 65 (exclusive)

Updated: May 13, 2022


I want to take a look at two different cationic surfactants & compare the two;


BTMS 50 - INCI; Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetyl Alcohol (and) Butylene Glycol

(note; I've seen some BTMS 50 on the market without butylene glycol. I really want to try it with out the butylene glycol to see how the two compare. Let me know if you have any thoughts on this?)


Varisoft EQ 65 - INCI; Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride (and) Cetearyl Alcohol

Both of these cationic surfactants have a lot in common;

  • Cationic Positive charge

  • conditions hair and skin

  • detangles hair

  • They can both can be used as a primary emulsifier

  • They both claim to leave a powdery feel to the skin

  • Both can be used in leave in conditioners, rinse off conditioners, hair masks, and intense treatments, as well as an emulsifier for lotions, creams, and body butters

Even though they share these similarities there is still a lot that sets them apart from one another. The most obvious being their different ingredients. Varisoft is approved to be used in Ecocert products as opposed to BTMS 50, which is not approved.

Varisoft claims to offer excellent rinse-ability, increased ease of styling, and increased gloss when compared to 2% Behentrimonium Chloride (Behentrimonium Chloride is the first ingredient found in BTMS 50)


On the other side BTMS 50 claims to resist rinse off and leaving noticeable body and spring to hair.


So I decide to create two different conditioners. Both with the same exact formula. The only difference is I used 5% BTMS 50 in one and 5% Varisoft EQ 65 in the other. I definitely felt the difference between the two. Here is the formula I used for the BTMS 50 conditioner. I wrote a whole blog about it. Go check it out if you would like.


water phase

oil phase

cool down phase

My thoughts and experience;


Color - First I want to talk about the physical difference between the two. The Varisoft EQ 65 conditioner was a little darker compared to the BTMS 50 conditioner. This is because the Varisoft EQ 65 pellets are off white. The BTMS 50 pellets are a pure white. This is definitely something to keep in mind aesthetically, but on it's own doesn't make it bad.


Texture & Viscosity - I noticed the Varisoft conditioner was a little less viscous than the BTMS 50 conditioner. This doesn't bother me at all. What did bother me was the texture of the varisoft conditioner. Okay, it didn't bother me to the point that I hated it, but it just didn't feel the same as a traditional conditioner. It kind of had this gritty look to it. I don't want to say it felt gritty because I think that description is a little to intense to use, but it didn't have that smooth feeling to it. I didn't feel chunks or bits in it when I would massage it into my hand, but I could just tell by the look of it that it wasn't as smooth. (Refer to my video to see what I mean, it is really hard to explain) Maybe varisoft needs to be emulsified in a unique way or maybe this is just how it feels. I figured if it did need emulsified in a unique way the supplier would make it known on the description of the ingredient. Either way, this doesn't necessarily make it a bad ingredient on it's own, but it's something to keep in mind.


PH - The Ph values were very similar. BTMS 50 conditioner came out to 4.7 while the Varisoft EQ 65 came out to be 4.5


Feeling on Hair - (I used Varisoft on the left side of my head and BTMS 50 on the right) Instantly when I used the BTMS 50 on my hair I felt it come to life! I have very dry hair, so I need a good conditioner. I bleach my hair, so I need moisture! When I used the BTMS 50 conditioner I could really feel the conditioner on my hair when I ran my hand through. I could easily comb through my hair and it really just felt like a good conditioner you would pick up on the market. I love it! Now for the varisoft conditioner. I can't say that it really felt like a good conditioner. When I applied it to my hair, yes it made my hair just as easily comb-able as the BTMS 50 conditioner, but it didn't feel as soft as the BTMS 50. You know when you have conditioner in your hair is has that silky slip and glide to it when you touch it, the varisoft didn't make it feel that way. My hair still felt dry while the conditioner was in my hair even though it was easily comb-able. After I washed both of them out of my hair my hair felt the same on both sides. I could comb through my hair just as easily on the right side as I could the left side. Both sides felt moisturized and conditioned. I didn't notice any significant difference between the two after I rinsed them out.


Final thoughts

I like the BTMS 50 more. Even though after I rinsed both of the conditioners out my hair felt the same, I just really enjoyed the way my hair felt while the BTMS 50 was still in my hair as compared to the Varisoft. I felt like I was using a real conditioner with the BTMS 50. The Varisoft conditioner just didn't do it for me. You know when you buy a product that is organic or "natural" and it just doesn't have that same feel as the "normal" kind. That's really the best way to describe it.


What are your thoughts on these two cationic surfactants?

Fun fact; Do you know why cationic surfactants are so great for the hair? Cationic surfactants are positively charged and hair is negatively charged. This means that the positively charged surfactants are attracted to the negatively charged hair strands (or neutral skin), and will absorb and cling on to the surface, resisting being easily rinsed off, which gives the feel of long lasting hydration and conditioning, plus boosts lubricity and static control, which helps reduce friction and pull during wet comb-outs and brushing.




Comments

bottom of page