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Brightening Kojic Acid, Vitamin C&E Moisturizer (exclusive)

Updated: May 13, 2022


All ingredients in this formula are naturally derived or Cosmos approved besides the 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate (vitamin C). The natural version of vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) is difficult to formulate with and easily becomes destabilized which is why I recommend using a synthetic version of vitamin C over the natural (L-Ascorbic Acid) version.


NOTE - kojic acid is meant for both dark and light skin. It isn't meant to lighten the natural color of your skin but lighten any dark spots your skin may have. It can only lighten non-normal pigmentation caused from freckles, age spots, sun spots, acne scars, or melasma. It helps even out your complexion.


Formula;

phase A

phase B

phase C

  • 2% kojic acid

  • 10% distilled water (heated to 95°-100°)

phase D (cool down)

Directions;

  • combine all ingredients in phase A in a heat safe beaker and combine all ingredients in phase B in a separate heat safe beaker.

  • cover and heat both phases using a water bath to 158°f/70°c and hold for 20 minutes

  • once heated and everything is melted pour phase A into phase B and mix with an immersion blender. Come back and mix periodically until it cools to 100°f

  • while phase A/B cools weight out the distilled water in phase C in a heat safe beaker and heat the water to 100°f then add in the kojic acid and mix until the kojic acid fully dissolves. NOTE; You may need to reheat it a bit to get the kojic acid to fully dissolve.

  • immediately after getting the kojic acid to dissolve in the water pour phase C into phase A/B and hand mix. NOTE; you want to pour phase C into phase A/B immediately because the kojic acid will recrystalize if you let it sit for to long.

  • add in the ingredients in phase D and mix until combine.

  • check and balance ph to 4.5 - 5

ph sensitive ingredients in formula;

Vitamin C, 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate is ph sensitive. It is active in a ph between 2.0 to 5.0.

Kojic acid is active in ph levels between 4-9.


Natural PH of product - around 5.31. I added in 2 drops of a 50% citric acid solution diluted in 50% distilled water and go the ph down to 4.64.

If you don't know how to take and adjust ph you can watch my video here to learn how.


Benefits/Purpose of each ingredient

glycerin - humectant that hydrates the skin

ritamulse SCG - ecocert approved waxy emulsifiers. Helps bind oil and water together to create emulsions.

cetyl alcohol - helps stabilize emulsions. Acts as a thickener and emollient. (an emollient moisturizes the skin)

sunflower oil - moisturizes the skin

papaya oil - high in vitamins A, C, & E. helps firm skin remove blemishes and even skin tone.

kojic acid - promotes skin lightening and helps establishing an even skin tone on all skin types. minimizes liver spots. kojic acid has a tendency to oxidize over time which is why I added in vitamin E in this formula. So it is recommended to use vitamin E tocopherol or BHT to reduce oxidation.

3-glyceryl ascorbate - is a vitamin C derivative that is more stable than powder-derived vitamin C alternatives. Vitamin C is an antioxidant that helps protect the skin from damaging free radicals. Brightens skin and improves skin regeneration. Conditions and moisturizes the skin. Boosts collagen product and improves skins elasticity.

papaya enzyme - soothes skin irritants and exfoliates dead skin cells.

turmeric extract - may help keep skin soft and smooth, make skin glow, produce a fairer complexion & remove blemishes such as reduce pigmentation.

vitamin E - an antioxidant. vitamin e pairs perfectly with kojic acid as it helps keep kojic acid from oxidizing.

liquid germall plus - preservative


Substitutions;

substituting ingredients will change the final feel, viscosity, and overall effect of final product. percentages and formulating procedure may need to change with substitutions.

  • glycerin - propanedial, propylene glycol or other humectant

  • ritamulse SCG/ecomulse - emulsifying wax NF, Olivem 1000, montanov 68 MB, any waxy emulsifier

  • cetyl alcohol - cetearyl alcohol

  • sunflower oil- any other plant oil of choice

  • papaya oil- any other plant oil of choice

  • kojic acid - no sub but you could use this version of kojic acid instead Kojic Acid Dipalmitate (KAD), which is supposably more stable. It is oil soluble instead, so you need to formulate with it differently. The formulating guidelines say this "Kojic Acid Dipalmitate (KAD) can tend to form a crystal precipitate in some cosmetic formulations. It is recommended to add Isopropyl Palmitate or Isopropyl Myristate to the oil phase containing KAD and heat to 80°C (167°F) and hold for 5 minutes until the KAD dissolves completely. Then add the oil phase to the aqueous phase and emulsify for about 10 minutes."

  • 3-glyceryl ascorbate - Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) I've never used this, but it seems to be similar. It does need to be in a formula with a ph between 6-7 though. You could also use FSS vitamin C liposome PF or another vitamin C derivative.

  • papaya enzyme - willow bark extract, FSS Pap-Ango Enzyme PBF, or another extract of choice.

  • turmeric extract - any other extract of choice

  • vitamin E - no sub, but you could leave out. You could also use some green tea extract since it is also an antioxidant.

  • liquid germall plus - any other water soluble preservative like optiphen plus or euxyl PE 9010




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