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November Vlog 2023 (exclusive)




I formulated a face moisturizer and a body moisturizer using some of my favorite formulas. I have a lot of ingredients that are expired since I haven't formulated in 3 months. So I had to modify the formulas a bit. I won't be sharing the exact recipe I used, just the formula. As you should be able to transfer the formula into a recipe.


If you don't know how to transfer a formula from percents into a recipe using grams then watch this video.


I also won't be sharing substitutes. I do offer substitutions on the original versions of these formulas. So check those out. I will link to those below.


Links to equipment and content I mentioned in Vlog;

Lab Coat seen in Vlog


Buffing solution to lower pH I made in vlog

Directions; Dilute 50% citric acid in 50% distilled water. I like to take 50 grams of citric acid and 50 grams of distilled water and add it into a 4 oz plastic bottle. I just shake it up until the citric acid fully dissolves. You can keep this for about a month and use it whenever you need to adjust the ph of your products. You don't need to worry about preserving it since it has such a low ph, just be sure to keep it out of light. I store mine in a dark cabinet. Make sure you add a label on it so you know what it is and when you made it. Create a new buffing solution each month.


You could also use lactic acid to lower the ph. To use lactic acid you need to create a 10% lactic acid dilution with 90% distilled water. I personally don't like this method because lactic acid is rather expensive. I just wanted to let you know there is another method out there besides using citric acid.


Buffing solution to raise pH I made in vlog

Directions; weigh out the distilled water in a plastic container. Look for a container that is PP#5 as this is a hard plastic that can withstand heat. I use this one. Next weight out the sodium hydroxide in an other container. I use a little glass bowl. Go into a well ventilated room or preferably outside and pour the sodium hydroxide into the water, NOT the other way around. Make sure you pour the sodium hydroxide into the water. You also want to make sure you have gloves, a mask, and protective eye wear on when working with sodium hydroxide. After you pour the sodium hydroxide into the water mix it up. You will notice the solution will become foggy, it may sizzle and it will heat up. This is totally normal. Let it sit until the water runs clear and it returns to room temperature. You can then store the 10% sodium hydroxide solution in a thick plastic container. You want to look for HDPE #2. Add a label onto your container so you know what it is and when you made it.


important note; wear protective clothing like long sleeves, goggles, and gloves when working with sodium hydroxide. Also work in a well ventilated room or outside.

You can also raise the ph using triethanolamine, I've personally never used it, but it does seem to be popular. You can purchase it here. I don't know how to use it, since I have never tried it, I just wanted to share this method with you as well.


How to raise and lower ph of your products

I like to start by taking the ph of my product so I know what the starting ph is. I then will begin by adding about 5 drops of my ph buffing solution into my product. I mix it in and let my product sit for about a minute before taking the ph again. Take the ph again and if you need to add more ph buffing solution add more.

When you first make a new product you may have to go back and forth a lot when adjusting the ph, but once you make the product again, you will have a better idea of how much buffer solution you need.


Typically when I use the citric acid buffing solution I may need anywhere between 5 drops - 100 drops, just depends on the starting ph of my product and how big of a batch I made. As for the sodium hydroxide buffing solution I normally factor this into my formula because I use so much. Like I said, the only time I have to raise the ph of my products is when I work with AHA's and usually I use a lot of buffing solution. For example, if I make a toner with 5% glycolic acid I know I will need about 20% sodium hydroxide buffing solution. So I factor in the 20% buffing solution into my formula for the glycolic acid toner. The first time you formulate with an AHA it may take a while until you figure out how much buffing solution you need, but I promise with practice you will learn exactly how much buffing solution to use in each product. AHA's & BHA's are tricky to work with, so I only recommend it if you have been formulating for a while and are comfortable with it.


Formula for my Face moisturizer; Here is the original formula I modified 

water phase

  • 57.3% distilled water

oil phase

cool down phase

Directions;

  • combine all ingredients in the water phase in a heat safe beaker

  • combine all ingredients in the oil phase in a heat safe beaker

  • tare scale and take note of the water phase weight as we will be heating it up and some of the water will evaporate, so that will need replaced once it's done heating

  • place both phases in a water bath and heat to 158f/70c and hold for 20 minutes

  • removed the water phase from the water bath and weigh the water phase and replace any water that evaporated

  • pour water phase into oil phase and mix with an immersion blender to create the emulsion

  • let cool to 100f/50c and mix periodically as it cools

  • while cream cools, combine the ULMW hyaluronic acid and glycerin in a beaker and mix until combined, then add in the vegetable collagen & saccharomyces ferment  and mix.

  • In a separate beaker combine the oil soluble ingredients tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (vitamin C), geogard 221, vitamin E

  • once your lotion is 100° f or cooler pour in the water soluble cool down phase and mix until combined. Then add in the oil soluble cool down phase and mix.

  • check pH and adjust to around 4.5 - 5.5


phase A

phase B

phase C

Directions;

  • combine ingredients in phase A and phase B in two separate beakers.

  • cover with foil and place in a water bath. heat to 158f/70c and hold for 20 minutes

  • pour phase A into phase B and mix with an immersion blender to create the emulsion

  • let cool to 100f/50c and mix periodically as it cools

  • while the emulsion cools mix together all ingredients besides the geogard 221 in phase C until the dl panthenol dissolves.

  • once the emulsions cools to 100f/50c pour in the DL panthenol, distilled water, and ceramide mixture and mix until combine. Then add in the geogard 221

  • check and balance ph to 4.5 - 5.5 and pour into bottle before its completely cooled. It's easier to pour before the lotion thickens. Don't put on the cap of the bottle until it's fully cooled. You could also wait until it cools completely and pour the lotion into a plastic baggie, cut off a corner and squeeze it into a bottle.

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