How to make Salicylic acid Moisturizer & Toner

taralee
Apr 12, 2022
4 min read

Updated: May 13, 2022

Both of these formulas contain all natural or ecocert approved ingredients besides the preservative (liquid germall plus)

phase A

phase B

4% ph buffer (10% sodium hydroxide solution)
78.5% distilled water
.5% liquid germall plus

Directions;

combine the propanedial and salicylic acid and mix until salicylic acid is somewhat dissolved. Then add in the poly suga mulse D9 and mix.
place in a water bath and mix regularly until salicylic acid fully dissolves.
in a separate beaker mix together the distilled water, buffer solution, and liquid germall plus.
once salicylic acid in phase A is dissolved for into phase B and mix
check ph, adjust to 3.5-4.5 if needed.
pour toner into bottle

Benefits/Purpose of each ingredient

salicylic acid - BHA. Helps treat acne by exfoliating the skin and can help with preventing future breakouts. Can help with black heads & white heads & can also help with treating ingrown hairs.

1,3 propanedial - humectant that hydrates skin and helps dissolve salicylic acid

poly suga mulse D9 - solubilizer. Helps keep salicylic acid from recrystallizing in formula

ph buffer solution - 10% sodium hydroxide diluted in 90% distilled water. It helps raise the ph since the salicylic acid dramatically drops the ph.

liquid germall plus - preservative

Substitutions;

substituting ingredients will change the final feel, viscosity, and overall effect of final product. percentages and formulating procedure may need to change with substitutions.

salicylic acid - no sub
1,3 propanedial - glycerin or propylene glycol.
poly suga musle D9 - sunflower solubilizer, tego solve 61, polysorbate 80, polysorbate 20
ph buffer solution - triethanolamine ( would need to be used at a different percentage)
liquid germall plus - euxyl PE 9010, optiphen plus

How to make ph buffer (10% sodium hydroxide solution)

90% distilled water
10% sodium hydroxide

directions;

weigh out the distilled water in a glass container
weigh out the sodium hydroxide in another container
pour the sodium hydroxide into the water DO NOT DO IT THE OTHER WAY AROUND
mix
you will notice it will turn foggy and the water will heat up and maybe even sizzle, this is normal. Let it sit until water runs clear and returns to room temperature

important note; wear protective clothing like long sleeves, goggles, and gloves when working with sodium hydroxide. Also work in a well ventilated room or outside.

Salicylic Acid Moisturizer

phase A

61.8% distilled water
4% ph buffer (10% sodium hydroxide solution)

phase B

phase C

phase D

0.5% vitamin E
0.5% liquid germall plus

Directions;

combine all ingredients in phase A in one beaker and all ingredients in phase B in another beaker.
place both phases into a water bath. Heat to 70°c/158°f and hold at around that temperature for 20 minutes while stove top is still on.
while phase A and B heat work on phase C
combine the salicylic acid and propanedial
place in the water bath and mix until salicylic acid is fully dissolved
once the salicylic acid is dissolved add in the xanthan gum soft and mix
after both phase A and B are heated pour phase A into phase B and mix with an immersion blender
pour phase C into phase A/B and mix with immersion blender again
let cool and come back and mix with immersion blender periodically until thickened

Benefits/Purpose of each ingredient

ph buffer solution - 10% sodium hydroxide diluted in 90% distilled water. It helps raise the ph since the salicylic acid dramatically drops the ph.

montanov 68 MB - non ionic emulsifier. may help actives or lipids from our lotions penetrate our skin easier & works in a ph between 3 to 10, which makes it perfect for this product since this moisturizer has a much lower ph than normal moisturizers due to the salicylic acid.

cetyl alcohol - emollient, thickener, and co emulsifier. Provides moisture to the skin and helps stabilize the emulsions. It also helps thicken the moisturizer.

olive squalane - non greasy emollient that helps moisturize and condition skin. Squalane is the stable form of squalene, a component naturally present in both botanical oils and in our sebum. Feels similar on the skin to plant oils, but is much more light weight, non greasy and fast absorbing. A great ingredient to help moisturize oily skin types, but is great for all skin types.

bisabolol - a naturally occurring active ingredient that accelerates the healing process of skin and protects it from the effects of daily stress. Known to have anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory properties, bisabolol has been shown to reduce UV-induced erythema in-vivo. It has also been demonstrated in studies to enhance the dermal penetration of other ingredients, making it a truly versatile active ingredient for skin care products, especially those containing other active ingredients and cosmeceuticals. It also has natural anti-bacterial as well as anti-mycotic properties.

salicylic acid - BHA. Helps treat acne by exfoliating the skin and can help with preventing future breakouts. Can help with black heads & white heads & can also help with treating ingrown hairs.

1,3 propanedial - humectant that hydrates skin and helps dissolve salicylic acid

xanthan gum soft - a gum that can help thicken the water phase thus helping to stabilizing emulsions. I recommend xanthan gum soft over all other xanthan gums.

vitamin E - an antioxidant that helps maintain skins health. promotes growth of new skin, soothes skin, prevents dryness, and promotes a youthful radiant complexion.

liquid germall plus - preservative

Substitutions;

substituting ingredients will change the final feel, viscosity, and overall effect of final product. percentages and formulating procedure may need to change with substitutions.

ph buffer solution - triethanolamine ( would need to be used at a different percentage)
montanov 68 MB - any waxy emulsifier that is active in lower ph levels between 3-4. Olivem 1000 or lotionpro 165 would work as an alternative
cetyl alcohol - cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearic acid, or another fatty acid, fatty alcohol stabilizer/thickener.
olive squalane - an emollient ester like caprylic/capric triglyceride, c12-15 alkyl benzoate, a plant oil, or a butter.
bisabolol - you could add 2%-5% chamomile extract to the cool down phase or you can leave out and replace with more olive squalane or distilled water
salicylic acid - no sub
1,3 propanedial - glycerin or propylene glycol.
xanthan gum soft - any other xanthan gum like xanthan gum clear you could use a different gum like sclerotium gum or guar gum
liquid germall plus - euxyl PE 9010, optiphen plus