Ecocert Cleansing Balm (exclusive)
- taralee
- Sep 28, 2023
- 4 min read
some thoughts; I've been working on this formula for a while. It's a product I've been developing for the Etsy shop. The formula definitely isn't perfect, but I really really like it. The only issue is that it's not hard enough. So whenever I attempt it again I'm gonna try 7% sunflower wax.
Also, I want to talk a bit about water in oil emulsions. So first I want to mention, an oil in water emulsion are emulsions that most of us have made and are familiar with. It's all the lotions, hair conditions, and creams we have made. When we use things like emulsifying wax NF, olivem 1000, ritamulse SCG/ecomulse, montanov 68 MB to mix oil into water. Most of these are high HLB emulsifiers. If they aren't high HLB emulsifiers then they just don't have an HLB and don't comply with the HLB system. But either way they are water based products with a small amount of oil emulsified into them. What I am making today is a water in oil emulsion. In the past I described water in oil emulsions to be emulsions with a small amount of water mixed into oil using low HLB emulsifiers. Sooooo apparently I was wrong. Apparently a water in oil emulsion can even be emulsions with 60% water and 40% oil. The only thing that separates an oil in water emulsion with a water in oil emulsion is the emulsifiers used. Oil in water emulsions (which are the emulsions we are familiar with) are made with high HLB emulsifiers and water in oil emulsions are made with low HLB emulsifiers and they are just simply harder to formulate. Today I'm making a water in oil emulsion. It has a very small water phase that is less than 5% so it doesn't need a preservative.
Formula;
phase A
3% glyceryl stearate
5% sunflower wax
84% oil (I used 60% caprylic capric triglyceride, 6% raspberry seed oil, 6% watermelon seed oil, 6% apple seed oil, 3% carrot seed oil, 3% plum oil)
phase B
3% polyglyceryl-3 oleate
3% olivem 300
2% water soluble oat extract
Directions;
combine all ingredients in phase A in a heat safe beaker and place in a water bath to melt everything together
while phase A is melting combine all ingredients in phase B and mix
once phase A is melted remove from heat and mix using an overhead stirrer
once phase A is cooled to around 100°f / 40°c start pouring in phase B while mixing. (I believe this should still work with out an overhead stirrer. Just hand mix it)
once phase B is fully incorporated you can pour into jar.
let sit overnight and it should be ready to use the next day
pH adjusting; no pH adjusting needed since this is an anhydrous product.
Benefits/Purpose of each ingredient
glyceryl stearate - emulsifying and skin conditioning agent. Both an opacifier and a viscosity builder with a low HLB. It is used in this product as a water in oil emulsifier and as a thickener.
sunflower wax - is used in this formula as a hardener. Melting point 165-171°F (74-77°C) has film forming properties and provides lubricity.
caprylic capric triglyceride - light weight, clear, odorless, non-staining and non-greasy liquid oil with an almost indefinite shelf life and is easily absorbed into skin.
plum oil - full of antioxidants and essential fatty acids. This oil is on the lighter side and absorbs pretty quickly into the skin. It feels similar to watermelon oil.
carrot seed oil - heavier oil that takes a bit longer to absorb into skin. is said to help nourish, tighten, revitalize, and rejuvenate the skin. Said to visibly improve skin tone, elasticity, reduce wrinkles and help with overall skin health. Great oil that all skin types can benefit from.
apple seed oil - has compounds that enhance collagen synthesis of the skin. High in Vitamin E, omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids that provide many benefits for skin health. is a lighter weight oil that absorbs rather quickly
raspberry seed oil - antioxidant, high in omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, contains 83% essential fatty acids and has a high level of vitamin E. is a lighter weight oil that absorbs rather quickly.
watermelon oil - has moisturizing regenerating and restoring properties
polyglyceryl - 3 oleate - oil soluble emulsifier, transforms the oil into a creamy milk in the presence of water that nourishes your skin as it cleanses.
olivem 300 - used as a superfatting agent to create a milky emulsifying effect. offers skin smoothness and moisturizing effects.
oat extract - helps restore moisture to skin, soothes skin, and helps reduce irritation.
Substitutions;
substituting ingredients will change the final feel, viscosity, and overall effect of final product. percentages and formulating procedure may need to change with substitutions. these substitution suggestions are just suggestions and have not been tested to work.
sunflower wax - any wax will work, but you may need to tweak the percentage. I would start with 5% wax and then go up from there. I think this formula could even use more wax. If I tried it again I'd use 7% sunflower wax instead.
glyceryl stearate - I haven't tried it with any other waxy emulsifier, but sorbitan stearate seems similar. I would give that a try.
caprylic capric triglyceride - c12-15 alkyl benzoate, squalane, coco caprylate/caprate, or a light weight plant oil like jojoba oil or meadowfoam seed oil
other oils (raspberry seed oil, watermelon seed oil, apple seed oil, carrot seed oil,plum oil) - you can use whatever plant oil instead, but make sure it's a lighter oil or a medium weight oil. If you use a heavier oil keep it at 5% or lower.
polyglyceryl - 3 oleate - I haven't successfully made it with anything else or know of anything that is similar. It is a liquidy, oil soluble, low HLB emulsifier. If you know of another ingredient that is similar you can try that instead.
olivem 300 - you can try a different superfatting agent, but this is the only one I had to actually test with. Glyceryl oleate may work.
oat extract - any water soluble extract. cucumber or chamomile would be a great sub.
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