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5% Glycolic Acid Moisturizer (exclusive)

This is basically a part 2 to the patreon exclusive video I posted last month titled How to Formulate with Alpha Hydroxy Acids. In that video I talked about how to formulated with AHA and how to do a tester batch to determine how much pH buffer you need. I also showed how to make the pH buffer solution.

Some things to keep in mind when formulating or using glycolic or lactic acid

  • Glycolic and Lactic Acid have an extremely low pH so you need to raise the pH of your product when working with Glycolic and Lactic Acid in order for it to be skin safe.

  • You can only use specific emulsifiers that are active in lower pH levels around 3.5 - 5. Not all emulsifiers will work with acids. Same goes for preservatives. You need to use preservatives active in the same pH level your product is. Always read the description/formulating guidelines or any literature linked or mentioned in the description of any ingredient you buy.

  • Glycolic and Lactic acid are advanced ingredients to work with.

  • Always wear sunscreen when using AHAs on the skin. AHAs cause the skin to shed dead skin cells revealing softer skin. This skin is more prone to sunburns and free radicals making it extra important to wear sunscreen. Even though you should be wearing sunscreen everyday anyways. :)

  • Glycolic acid is said to be stronger than lactic acid since it has a lower molecular weight. Glycolic acid penetrates the skin deeper than lactic acid. On the other hand, lactic acid is better for dryer skin or more sensitive skin types since it isn't as strong and it is moisturizing.

  • If you've never used an AHA before it is recommended to start with a low percentage and slowly work your way up. If you have sensitive skin or it's your first time using an AHA, try a product with 5% or lower lactic acid. Us it 1-2 times a week for about a month. If no irritation occurs then you can up the percentage or try a 5% glycolic acid product.

Formula;

phase A

  • 5% glycerin

  • 0.5% xanthan gum soft

  • 50.6% distilled water

phase B

  • 4% lotionpro 165 (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate)

  • 4% cetyl alcohol

  • 10% any plant oil of choice ( I used apricot kernel oil)

  • 3% butter (I used shea butter)

phase C

  • 7.2% glycolic acid

  • 15% pH butter solution (10% sodium hydroxide dissolved in 90% distilled water)

phase D

  • 0.2% vitamin E (INCI; Tocopherol)

  • 0.5% liquid germall plus


300 gram recipe / batch;

phase A

  • 10 grams glycerin

  • 1 gram xanthan gum soft

  • 101.2 grams distilled water

phase B

  • 8 grams lotionpro 165 (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate)

  • 8 grams cetyl alcohol

  • 20 grams any plant oil of choice ( I used apricot kernel oil)

  • 6 grams butter (I used shea butter)

phase C

  • 14.4 grams glycolic acid

  • 30 grams pH butter solution (10% sodium hydroxide dissolved in 90% distilled water)

phase D

  • 0.4 grams vitamin E (INCI; Tocopherol)

  • 1 gram liquid germall plus

Directions;

  • In a heat safe beaker combine both the glycerin and xanthan gum first and mix before pouring in the distilled water and mix again. It will thicken and gel the water.

  • In a separate heat safe beaker combine all the ingredients in phase B.

  • Tare scale and place your beaker with phase A on the scale and take note of how much it weighs. We will be heating it up and some of the water will evaporate. We will need to replace that water after we heat it up.

  • Fill a pan with about an inch or so of water and place it on your stove top over medium high heat.

  • Cover both beakers with some aluminum foil and place into the pan with water. This is called a water bath.

  • Heat until all of phase B is melted.

  • Remove phase A from the heat and place back on to your scale and add back in any water that evaporated.

  • Now you can remove phase B from the water bath and pour phase A into phase B and mix with an immersion blender.

  • While phase A/B cools you can combine both ingredients in phase C in a separate beaker.

  • Once phase A/B has cooled to 100°F / 40°C or under you can start pouring in your phase C. I poured a little bit at a time and mixed then continued this until it was all incorporated. (if you decide to use a higher percentage of glycolic acid, that would mean you would need more pH buffer. We are already using quite a bit of pH buffer here since we are only using a 10% sodium hydroxide solution. If you want to use less buffer solution make your buffer solution stronger by increasing it to a 20% sodium hydroxide solution. That would mean you would need 20% sodium hydroxide and 80% distilled water)

  • Once all of phase C is mixed into phase A/B you can now add in all the ingredients in phase D and mix.

  • Cover and let sit overnight. If you decide to bottle it the day you make it just make sure you keep the cap open for it to cool fully.

pH adjusting; don't need to adjust the pH since you should have already figured out how much pH buffer you need using the previous video


Benefits/Purpose of each ingredient

xanthan gum soft - thickener and gelling agent (can feel tacky if you use too much in leave on products)

glycerin - humectant (hydrates the skin)

lotionpro 165 - Is an acid stable emulsifier that blends together oil and water. Lotionpro 165 can make fluffier and lighter emulsions compared to other emulsifiers because it only emulsifies it does not thicken like other emulsifiers. Its an emulsifier you would thicken by the use of fatty acids / fatty alcohols like cety alcohol or stearic acid. Or thicken by the use of gums / gelling agents like sepimax zen or xanthan gum. You may have seen me use it in body yogurts or emulsified body butter.

cetyl alcohol - Emollient and thickener. Used to thicken the emulsion

I used apricot kernel oil - moistures the skin, but you can use any oil you want.

butter (I used shea butter) - moisturizes the skin, but you can use any butter of choice.

glycolic acid - it will slough off dead skin cells revealing smoother, softer, & brighter skin. said to help with acne, dark spots, wrinkles, and much more

pH butter solution - 10% sodium hydroxide dissolved in 90% distilled water. Used to raise the pH. Glycolic acid has a really low pH so when you add it to your product the pH will dramatically drop. So you need to raise the pH in order for the moisturizer to be safe to apply.

vitamin E - antioxidant

liquid germall plus - Extremely easy to use water soluble preservative. Best preservative to use for beginners.


Substitutions;

substituting ingredients will change the final feel, viscosity, and overall effect of final product. percentages and formulating procedure may need to change with substitutions. these substitution suggestions are just suggestions and have not been tested to work.

xanthan gum soft - other gum of choice or leave out. Xanthan gum isn't necessary, it is being used as an emulsion stabilizer. (make sure the gum or gelling agent you use is stable in low pH levels.

lotionpro 165 - any acid stable emulsifier. Emulsifying wax NF or Montanov 68 MB

cetyl alcohol - other fatty acid or fatty alcohol or choice. cetearyl alcohol

I used apricot kernel oil - you can use any oil you want.

butter (I used shea butter) - any butter of choice.

glycolic acid - no sub

vitamin E - you can leave it out

liquid germall plus - any water soluble preservative active in a pH between 3.5 - 5. Euxyl PE 9010 (active up to 12), Tristate Eco (active between 4 - 8 so make sure pH is 4 or above)


How to make pH Buffer solution to raise ph

  • 90% distilled water

  • 10% sodium hydroxide

Directions; weigh out the distilled water in a plastic container. Look for a container that is PP#5 as this is a hard plastic that can withstand heat. I use this one. Next weight out the sodium hydroxide in another container. I use a little glass bowl. Go into a well ventilated room or preferably outside and pour the sodium hydroxide into the water, NOT the other way around. Make sure you pour the sodium hydroxide into the water. You also want to make sure you have gloves, a mask, and protective eye wear on when working with sodium hydroxide. After you pour the sodium hydroxide into the water mix it up. You will notice the solution will become foggy, it may sizzle and it will heat up. This is totally normal. Let it sit until the water runs clear and it returns to room temperature. You can then store the 10% sodium hydroxide solution in a thick plastic container. You want to look for HDPE #2 plastic containers. Add a label onto your container so you know what it is and when you made it.

important note; wear protective clothing like long sleeves, goggles, and gloves when working with sodium hydroxide. Also work in a well ventilated room or outside.

You can also raise the ph using triethanolamine, I've personally never used it, but it does seem to be popular. You can purchase it here. I don't know how to use it, since I have never tried it, I just wanted to share this method with you as well.


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