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Shampoo Bars for Fine Hair

Updated: May 13, 2022


Formula;

powder phase (dry ingredients)

liquid phase (wet ingredients)

conditioning phase

Directions

  • Combine the ingredients in the conditioning phase in a heat safe beaker and melt ingredients in a water bath

  • While the conditioning phase is being heated, combine the ingredients in the powder phase. (This is when I like to add in the mica powder for coloring.) Mix everything together.

  • Next, combine the ingredients in the liquid phase in a separate container and mix together. Slowly pour the liquid phase into the powder phase and mix until combined.

  • Now this is when you can pour the melted conditioning phase in with everything else and mix.

  • Your mixture should be dry but sticky. Try molding the mixture with your hands (wearing gloves) if the mixture is sticking to your gloves to much, it's not ready. Let the mixture chill until it is hard enough to be molded with your hands, but not sticking to your gloves to much. (watch my video for better reference on what your mixture should look like. I like to describe it as playdough)

  • once your mixture is ready you can either; put your shampoo bars in silicone molds, mold with your hands, or use a shampoo bar press like I did (which is my favorite method)

  • place your shampoo bars in the freezer for 2 hours then let the bars sit on the counter for 24 hours. (I recommend letting your shampoo bars sit for 1-2 weeks to completely dry out. Doing this will actually help your shampoo bars last longer)

Benefits/Purpose of each ingredient

SCI - top performing specialty anionic powder surfactant made from all vegetable, renewable resources. It is used to impart extra mildness, good after feel , and good foaming. Is great for all hair types. (ph: 4.5 to 7) (Ecocert)

dl panthenol - it’s a film former that increases shine while hydrating the hair strand to be more elastic, more manageable, and healthier. It can thicken the hair shaft, making hair appear thicker.

varisoft EQ 65 - cationic conditioning agent for hair care products and emulsions. it is ecocert and can improve combability and detangle hair. It can increase hair volume and is less likely to weigh down hair compared to some other conditioning agents.

stearic acid - functions as a protective conditioner that helps to leave the hair feeling soft, light, and lustrous. It helps harden the bar and doesn't reduce foam. You could use cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, or behenyl alcohol instead.

foaming apple - obtained by acylation of amino acids characteristic of apple juice. Functions as a skin conditioner and secondary surfactant. Is very gentle and mild and has a ph of around 6.5-7.5% (you don't need to lower the ph of this bar as we aren't using enough foaming apple that it would make the ph to high)

sodium lactate liquid - natural humectant, moisturizer and pH regulator produced from renewable non-animal, plant derived resources; namely vegetable sugars from corn and beets. It is even biodegradable. It is used to help harden the shampoo bar.

vegekeratin - is a vegetable alternative to animal keratin. It increases hair strength, enhances elasticity, helps protect hair from harsh salon processes, makes hair look more healthy and shiny, and improves the comb-ability of hair.

wheat protein - constitutes a unique hydrating complex offering a combination of moisture-balancing and film-forming properties that work synergistically to give hair better body and control, increased shine and highlights.

volumizing complex - can produce a bouncy curl and increase volume in hair

liquid germall plus - broad spectrum preservative


Exact Recipe I used; makes 200 grams (makes 3 bars)


Substitutions;

  • SCI - I don't know of any other powdered surfactants that are mild enough to be compared to SCI so I have no substitutions for it. Let me know if you do :)

  • dl panthenol - nothing really compares to this stuff, but it isn't necessary to use, so you could just take it out or replace with another powdered ingredient that is great for hair.

  • foaming apple - cocamidopropyl betaine

  • sodium lactate liquid - don't know of any substitutes. You can try making it without it, but the bar may not stay hard enough. Let me know how it works for you not including it :)

  • vegekeratin - you could use normal keratin

  • wheat protein - any other hydrolyzed protein

  • volumizing complex - not sure of any ingredient similar to this

  • liquid germall plus - any other water soluble broad spectrum preservative (personally I prefer using liquid germall plus because you only need .5% of it and that takes up only a small percent of the liquid phase and you really need to keep the liquid ingredients to a minimum in shampoo bars. So I recommend a preservative you only need a small amount of, but feel free to use a different one.)

  • lime essential oil - any other essential oil or fragrance oil

  • varisoft EQ 65 - BTMS 50

  • stearic acid - cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, or behenyl alcohol




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