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How to make Brightening Alpha Arbutin Serum

Updated: May 13, 2022

All ingredients in this formula are naturally derived or Ecocert approved accept for the preservative, liquid germall plus


Formula;

phase A

phase B

Directions;

  • combine all ingredients in phase A and mix until HA is mixed into propanedial

  • combine all ingredients in phase B in a separate beaker until all powder dissolves

  • once all ingredients in phase B are dissolved, pour phase B into phase A (tip: mix phase A again right before pouring in phase B)

  • mix until combined (there may still be chunks of hyaluronic acid, this is normal. The bigger the batch you make the longer the hyaluronic acid will take to hydrate)

  • check and adjust ph. (if you have a lot of chunks of hyaluronic acid wait until they are dissolved to adjust the ph)

  • cover and let sit over night to let HA hydrate

ph sensitive ingredients;

alpha arbutin needs to be in a ph between 3.5 - 6.6 and niacinamide needs to be in a ph around 6. I had to use a 10% lye solution to raise the ph of my serum. The natural ph was 5.16 and this would be fine if the product didn't contain niacinamide. So I raised the ph by adding in 0.09 grams or 5 drops of a diluted solution of 10% sodium hydroxide in 90% distilled water. I talk all about ph and how to raise and lower ph in this video here. This got the ph to 6.07


Benefits/Purpose of each ingredient


ULMW hyaluronic acid - helps plump, hydrate, and make skin more youthful and healthy HA is the natural gel between skin cells that serves as a water reservoir for the cells. As we age, skin loses hyaluronic acid and the ability to hold sufficient water in this reservoir. Feeding new hyaluronic acid to skin may help hydrate skin's inter-cellular reservoir, raising skin's moisture level, and smoothing down age lines. ULMW HA penetrates deeper into the skin, but it doesn't add any viscosity to the product.


HMW hyaluronic acid - doesn't penetrate as deeply into the skin compared to ULMW HA, but it will add some viscosity to the product. If you use it at 1% you will get a thick gelled serum. I chose to use it at 0.5% because I realized I like thinner serums.


propanedial 1,3 - humectant that hydrates the skin


alpha arbutin - "It is the more effective, faster and safer approach to promoting skin-brightening and an even skin tone on all skin types. also minimizes liver spots and meets all the requirements of a modern skin-brightening and skin depigmentation product." According to lotioncrafter


niacinamide - very effective skin-restoring ingredient that offers multiple benefits for aging skin. Among these benefits is the ability to visibly improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, dullness, and helps improve the overall appearance of the skin. Pairs perfectly with alpha arbutin.


licorice extract - has a gentle brightening and soothing action. it helps fade sun damage and hyper-pigmentation safely for all skin tones, while blocking melanin production to prevent more from forming.


FSS Pisum Sativum Peptide - PEA Protein - moisturizer, soothing, film former, rich in antioxidants.


sodium phytate - chelating agent. can help boost preservative, stabilize product, boost efficiency of vitamins, and more. Read more about it here


liquid germall plus - preservative


Substitutions;

substituting ingredients will change the final feel, viscosity, and overall effect of final product. percentages and formulating procedure may need to change with substitutions.

  • propanedial - glycerin, propylene glycol or other humectant

  • HA - no sub, but if you are looking for a gelling agent you can try sepimax zen, xanthan gum soft or another gum could work too, but I personally don't like how it feels in serums. I've heard good things about Sepinov EMT 10, but never tried it myself.

  • alpha arbutin - no sub

  • niacinamide - no sub, but you can leave out

  • licorice extract - any extract you would like

  • FSS Pisum Sativum Peptide - wheat protein, rice protein, baobab protein, or any other hydrolyzed protein.

  • sodium phytate - Disodium EDTA or other chelating agent. You could also leave out.

  • liquid germall plus - any other water soluble preservative like euxyl k 903, optiphen plus, euxyl PE 9010, geogard ECT, tristate eco, etc.




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