Brightening Shaving Bars (exclusive)
- taralee
- Sep 28, 2023
- 3 min read
Formula;
phase A
30% BTMS 50
25% cetyl alcohol
5% stearic acid
5% cupuacu butter
10% murumuru butter
10% apricot kernel oil
4.5% rosehip seed oil
phase B
5% glycerin
2% chamomile extract (water soluble)
1% lemon peel oil
1% bisabolol
0.3% tea tree essential oil
0.5% lemon & lime essential oil
0.2% vitamin E
0.5% liquid germall plus
Directions;
Combine all ingredients in phase A in a heat safe container.
place in a water bath to melt. come back periodically & mix to help melt everything.
once everything is melted remove from heat
let phase A cool as much as possible without it hardening before you add in the phase B ingredients, as these are all heat sensitive.
once everything is mixed and combined pour into mold of choice and let sit over night.
the next day you can remove the bars from the mold.
they will be pretty soft the first day, but after a day or so they will harden a bit. These aren't as hard as the conditioner bars I made recently. They are a bit softer.
pH adjusting; no pH adjusting needed. This is an anhydrous product with a small about of water in the inner phase so this product doesn't have a pH.
Benefits/Purpose of each ingredient
BTMS 50 - cationic surfactant that helps add slip and glide which makes shaving so smooth and easy. helps condition and soften the skin and reduces shaving irritation. My must have ingredient for shaving products. If you get razor burn easy try a BTMS 50 based shaving product.
cetyl alcohol - helps harden the bar and is an emollient that helps moisturize the skin.
stearic acid - hardener and helps reduce slip and increase drag of product. BTMS 50 can be really slippery. I made a conditioner bar in my last video and when I used that as a shaving bar it made the shower very slippery. so I wanted to add in stearic acid to hopefully help reduce that effect.
cupuacu butter - helps soften and moisturize skin
murumuru butter - helps soften and moisturize skin
apricot kernel oil - helps moisturize & soften skin. also said to help brighten and even skin tone.
glycerin - humectant that hydrates the skin
chamomile extract (water soluble) - has anti-inflammatory properties and helps soothe skin from irritation
rosehip seed oil - helps moisturize & hydrate skin. is also said to help with brightening skin and hyperpigmentation.
lemon peel oil - helps enhance the clarity and glow of the skin
bisabolol - is a naturally occurring active ingredient that accelerates the healing process of skin and protects it from the effects of daily stress. Known to have anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory properties, a-bisabolol has been shown to reduce UV-induced erythema in-vivo. It has also been demonstrated in studies to enhance the dermal penetration of other ingredients, making it a truly versatile active ingredient for skin care products, especially those containing other active ingredients and cosmeceuticals. It also has natural anti-bacterial as well as anti-mycotic properties. - according to lotioncrafter.com
tea tree essential oil - antimicrobial, antiseptic, & anti inflammatory, properties.
vitamin E - antioxidant
liquid germall plus - preservative
Substitutions;
substituting ingredients will change the final feel, viscosity, and overall effect of final product. percentages and formulating procedure may need to change with substitutions. these substitution suggestions are just suggestions and have not been tested to work.
cetyl alcohol - cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, or other fatty alcohol or fatty acid. I wouldn't replace all of this with stearic acid. Will probably add too much drag.
stearic acid - cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, or other fatty alcohol or fatty acid.
cupuacu butter - any butter of choice. This butter is a bit harder than shea butter, but a softer or harder butter would work fine.
murumuru butter - this butter is about as hard as cocoa butter. so cocoa butter would be a good alternative, but any butter, softer or harder would work fine.
glycerin - propanedial or propylene glycol
chamomile extract (water soluble) - cucumber, green tea, or witch hazel extract or other extract of choice.
apricot kernel oil - any oil of choice.
rosehip seed oil - any oil of choice.
lemon peel oil - any other oil instead.
bisabolol - no sub
tea tree essential oil - no sub. can leave out and use other essential oil of choice
vitamin E - no sub can leave out. replace with oil.
liquid germall plus - any water or oil soluble preservative should work. I wasn't really sure which to use, but I think either should work. Since this product is anhydrous, has only a small inner water phase, and is a solid you don't have to worry about the product growing mold yeast and bacteria as much.
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