What are Alpha Hydroxy Acids
- taralee
- Feb 23, 2022
- 4 min read
It is finally time to talk about Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) It has been frequently requested by you guys for me to make cosmetics using AHAs, but I think we need to take some time and talk about them first so we can understand what they are and how to work with them.
There are a few different AHAs out there. The most common are, glycolic acid, lactic acid, & citric acid. There is also a product by Formulator Sample Shop called Fruit Acid Complex(Fruit Mix) which is a combination of extracts that work as an AHA. So you can actually get AHAs from some extracts as well.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids help slough off dead skin cells. They act as an exfoliant on the uppermost layers of the skin helping to loosen the bonds between dead surface layers and the radiant skin beneath. So basically they help shed off all the old dead skin cells to reveal softer, brighter, more youthful skin that is hidden underneath. When we are young our skin sheds dead skin cells naturally, but as we age and our skin becomes damaged and the dead skin doesn't shed off as well, this is when AHAs come in handy :) This is why they are so popular in the anti aging market. The shedding of dead skin cells can help diminish the look of fine lines and wrinkles, improve skins firmness & texture, unclog pores, & fight acne. Overall AHA are best for normal to dry skin types.
There is another type of acid out there called Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) An example of a BHA is Salicylic acid. I personally don't have much experience with BHAs and I don't know much about them as compared to AHA. I have read that BHAs are great for oily/acne prone skin. BHA is great for treating blackhead & whiteheads and they can get through the oil that clogs pores to help normalize the lining of pores that is causing acne.
Let's go back to AHAs & talk about the two most popular ones & see what makes them different from one another.
Glycolic Acid has a smaller molecular size so it is able to penetrate through the cell walls. It can help encourage new collagen formation to help reduce wrinkles and plump up the skin. Glycolic acid is said to be better for sun damaged skin
Lactic Acid has a larger molecular size making it harder to penetrate the skin. It is far more moisturizing than glycolic acid though. Lactic acid is also more gentle and less irritating than glycolic acid. So it is best for dry sensitive skin
If you are new to AHA and have sensitive skin, it may be best to start off with lactic acid. Start with a low percentage, like 5% and then work your way up once your skin is use to it. If you don't have sensitive skin feel free to try glycolic acid first, but again only use a low percentage at first, then work your way up. I have found that my skin can't handle glycolic acid. Glycolic acid may sound better because it has a lower molecular size and can penetrate your skin better, but this isn't always a positive thing if you have sensitive skin. Using a high concentration of an AHA without building up a tolerance first can lead to many skin issues. You could damage your skins moisture barrier, cause redness, irritation, burning, and severe skin peeling. So NEVER start off with a high concentration, work your way up :)
A few other things to note, AHAs make your skin VERY sensitive to the sun. (since you are literally shedding off the top layer of your skin) you want to make sure you are using a sunscreen when using AHA. Use a sunscreen for up to 7 days after use.
Tips for using AHA if you have very sensitive skin;
Start with a very low percentage of lactic acid (I started with 5%, but if you are worried, start with an even lower percentage)
Use only once a day, in the evening. (I find twice a day to be to much for my skin, but it is okay to use twice a day if your skin can handle it)
Try using only every other day or maybe 2-3 times a week.
ALWAYS wear a sunscreen for up to 7 days after use (even if you don't apply in the morning)
Formulating with AHA
When adding an AHA to a formulation it will drastically lower the ph of your product to around 2-3, so you must bring the ph level back up to about 3.5-4. So be sure you have a good ph meter when working with AHAs. It is very crucial to balance the ph of products containing AHA. We will go into more detail on how to formulate with AHA in my next post. As a side note, if you use Fruit Acid Complex(Fruit Mix) you probably won't have to worry about altering the ph level. So if you aren't comfortable with raising the ph of your products you can use Fruit Acid Complex(Fruit Mix) as your AHA of choice.
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