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Vanilla Rose Milky Facial Cleanser

Updated: May 13, 2022


I recommend this cleanser to those of you looking for a very mild and light moisturizing cleansing. Something that won't strip away the natural oils on your skin and won't leave that tight skin feeling some cleansers give. This milky cleanser feels almost like you just applied a light moisturizer, but will also leave your skin feeling clean at the same time. I wouldn't recommend this cleanser if you wore a full face of makeup that day as you should use something stronger to breakup all the makeup from your skin. (unless you removed all the makeup prior to using this cleanser)


Formula;

water phase

oil phase

cool down phase

Directions;

  • begin by weighing out the xanthan gum and glycerin. mix them together to create a slurry.

  • once the xanthan gum has been hydrated in the glycerin add in the rest of the water phase ingredients.

  • mix everything together and you will notice you now have a thin gel. Great! set that beaker to the side and grab another beaker to weigh out the oil phase

  • once both phases are weighed out in separate beakers put the beakers in a water bath and heat to 158 degrees fahrenheit (50 degress celsius) and hold for 20 minutes.

  • while the water and oil phase are heating up weigh out the cool down ingredients in another beaker

  • start with the distilled water and dl panthenol. mix the dl panthenol with the distilled water until all the dl panthenol has dissolved. Once dissolved add in the rest of the cool down ingredients.

  • once the water phase and oil phase are ready pour the water phase into the oil phase and mix with an immersions blender. this is also the time I added in pink mica powder.

  • once the formula has cooled down, add in your cool down ingredients. mix everything together one last time and you are finished.

PH adjusting; I added in 20 drops of a 40 / 60 diluted solution of citric acid to lower the ph. I diluted 40% citric acid in 60% distilled water. This brought the ph to 5.44. Please check the ph of your milky cleanser and do your own adjusting. This milky cleanser has a very high natural ph since it is formulated with coco glucoside which has a ph of around 10-12. Keeping your products ph between 4.5 - 5.5 is ideal for healthy skin.


Benefits/Purpose of each ingredient

xanthan gum soft - gelling ingredient, and stabilizer. Creams and lotions made with xanthan gum will provide lubricity, uniform spreading, and a pleasant, light skin feel.

glycerin - humectant & is used to hydrate the xanthan gum

rose water - soothing ingredient and gives a nice natural rose scent to the product

vanilla water - adds a natural vanilla scent to product

glyceryl stearate - functions as a non-ionic opacifier, thickener, and formulation stabilizer, and also offers skin conditioning, moisturization, and hydration

olivem 1,000 - PEG-free non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifier developed from natural olive chemistry. It is an emulsifier and thickener

coco caprylate - acts as an emollient and leaves a light, non-oily smooth and velvet skin sensation.

coco glucoside - very mild, non ionic surfactant. used as a co surfactant to cleanse the skin. can help emulsify oil and water. I chose this cleansing surfactant for it's mild cleansing properties.

dl panthenol - provides excellent humectant benefits for restoring and maintaining natural skin moisture.

green tea extract - intended to act as a powerful antioxidant to protect the skin from environmental free radical damage, while also protecting the skin from UV radiation. may minimize the appearance of skin damage by helping to tone the epidermis and improve elasticity to decrease the appearance of sagging skin and fine lines.

strawberry extract - rich in vitamin c, known for containing soothing properties, and can reduce the appearance of pores.

oat protein - imparts a soft, cushiony feel on the skin. acts as a conditioning agent

liquid germall plus - preservative


Substitutions;

  • xanthan gum - sepimax zen or any other gelling agent

  • glycerin - propanedial 1,3

  • rose water - rose extract

  • vanilla water - SuperScents Vanilla or vanilla fragrance oil

  • glyceryl stearate - cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid, or behenyl alcohol (may change viscosity and feel of final product)

  • olivem 1,000 - emulsifying wax, ritamulse SCG, polawax, or montanov 68 MB

  • coco caprylate - a different emollient of choice

  • dl panthenol - no substitutes, but you could leave out and use a different moisturizing ingredient like hydrolyzed proteins.

  • green tea extract - leave out and use a different ingredient with antioxidants or just a different ingredient you like

  • strawberry extract - a different extract of choice or leave out

  • oat protein - a different hydrolyzed protein or leave out

  • coco glucoside - a different cleaning surfactant of choice. foaming apple, decyl glucoside, cocamidopropyl betaine, etc.

  • liquid germall plus - optiphen plus, euxyl pe 9010, leucidal sf complete, etc. any water soluble broad spectrum preservative that works in this formula




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