Trying to Dupe Tree Hut Coco Colada Shea Sugar Scrub
- taralee
- Sep 29, 2023
- 4 min read
Disclaimer; I still don't think I have the formula right. Separation does occur after a day or so and I can't get that exact gel like texture the tree hut scrub has.
I've had people suggest that the scrub is actually aqueous instead of anhydrous (since glycerin is the second ingredient on the ingredient list) and that may be true, but from my experiments (and trust me I have done A LOT!) the scrub is always more similar to the tree hut when I make it anhydrous (contain more silica base than glycerin/polysorbate 20) so you can do what you want, I'm just sharing this formula for now because it's the closest I have gotten. Use it as inspiration.
Before we make the scrub we need to first create the silica gel base. This will include all of the oils you want in your scrub.
Formula;
70% oil (any oil or combination of oils. I used sunflower oil)
Directions;
begin by weighing the oil first
make sure you are in a well ventilated room and wearing a respirator before you open up the bag of silica dimethyl silylate.
while wearing your respirator add the silica dimethyl silylate into the oil. I had to add a little at a time and mix it in before adding more. repeat the process until you have all of the silica dimethyl silyate mixed into the oil
it will be a globby mess. Let it sit for a day or so and it will become a nice smooth gel.
Moving on to Making the Scrub
Formula;
phase A
30% silica gel base
3% shea butter
phase B
6% glycerin
6% polysorbate 20
phase C
1% pineapple extract (oil soluble)
1% creamy coconut fragrance oil
1.5% optiphen
0.2% coconut shell powder
50% sugar
sprinkle titanium dioxide till desired color. (add a little at a time)
Directions;
Using a heat safe container combine all the ingredients in phase A and place in a water bath. (fill a pan with about an inch or so of water) let heat until the shea butter has melted.
in a separate container combine both ingredients in phase B. You will notice it will thicken. This is normal.
once phase A is melted you can pour phase B into phase A and mix until combined. It will be a really thick gel.
once cooled, you can now start adding in all the ingredients in phase C.
I like to start with the pineapple extract, fragrance oil, and optiphen first to get that mixed in.
Then I added in the titanium dioxide until I got an off white cream like color. You don't want to add in too much, so make sure you sprinkle in a little at a time. You also don't want it to look pure white. If you use too much titanium dioxide you will end up with sunscreen skin. It will look like you put on way too much sunscreen and can't rub it in.
Then I added in the sugar and lastly I just sprinkled in the coconut shell powder until I felt like it was enough. The percentage I put in the formula is just a rough estimate.
mix until everything is well combine and pour into desired jar.
pH adjusting; no pH adjusting needed as this is anhydrous.
Benefits/Purpose of each ingredient
sunflower oil - moisturizer
silica dimethyl silylate - Hydrophobic fumed silica that thickens oils and polyols and suspends particles in oils. Provides also thickening properties in the presence of polar solvents (e.g. dipropylene glycol, triethyl citrate or propylene carbonate). Forms transparent gels in oils (e.g. mineral oil, castor oil, plant oils). Thickens oil phases in emulsions and increases viscosity and gloss of various oils by forming oil-gels
shea butter - moisturizer
glycerin - humectant that hydrates the skin.
polysorbate 20 - is used as a high HLB emulsifier in combination with a variety low HLB emulsifiers to cover a wide range of oil in water, and water in oil emulsion systems. Alone, it is an excellent solubilizer of essential oils, a wetting agent, viscosity modifier, stabilizer and dispersing agent. Use it in the creation of linen and room sprays, body sprays and other products where oils need to be solubilized in water. In this formulation it is being used to emulsify the glycerin into the oil phase. Not really sure how as it's normally used to emulsify a little bit of oil into water so idk. I'm just trying to stick with only using ingredients that are listed on the coco coladas ingredient list and all my experiments have led me to this being the best option. I tried doing more glycerin and using the polysorbate 20 to emulsify the silica gel base into the glycerin, but the outcome wasn't as good. I will keep experimenting though as I'm determined to figure it out.
pineapple extract (Oil Soluble) - I bought from bramble berry and they don't list what it's benefits are to the skin. I do know pineapple is full of enzymes though and I've heard it has exfoliating benefits. But idk what this exact extract has going on.
optiphen - preservative for anhydrous formulas
coconut shell powder - just for looks
sugar - exfoliant
titanium dioxide - turns scrub white
Substitutions;
substituting ingredients will change the final feel, viscosity, and overall effect of final product. percentages and formulating procedure may need to change with substitutions. these substitution suggestions are just suggestions and have not been tested to work.
sunflower oil - any oil should work fine
silica dimethyl silylate - no sub
shea butter - mango butter
glycerin - I'd imagine any glycol should work, like propylene glycol or butylene glycol but I honestly can't say for sure. I am duping a product that also uses glycerin, so I'd just stick with that. glycerin is super easy to find and inexpensive. propanedial may also work, but when polysorbate 20 and glycerin mix they thicken idk what will happen if you use anything else instead.
polysorbate 20 - the product I'm duping used poly 20, so I'm not sure if poly 80 would work as a sub, but maybe. Try it and see. I am just trying to stick with what is on the ingredient list.
pineapple extract - any oil soluble extract
optiphen - phenonip or optiphen plus
sugar - dead sea salt
coconut shell powder - poopy seeds would look good
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