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Shampoo Bar for Dry Hair Types (exclusive)

Updated: May 13, 2022

I am finally trying my own recipe for shampoo bars. I didn't steer to far from the last recipe I did, but I still switched it up enough that it's my own formulation. I did try to keep the surfactants a little similar. I only switched the liquid surfactant out for a surfactant that is good for dry hair types. (I also changed the percentages of the surfactants) The liquid surfactant I used in the last recipe was Sodium AOS-40 C14-16, which from my research, is said to be good for oily hair types. In this recipe I am using Cocamidopropyl Betaine as my liquid surfactant, which is said to be better for dry hair types.

Note; Amphoteric surfactants and protein surfactants (foaming soy, foaming apple, foaming oats, etc) are said to be better for dry hair types

As for the powdered surfactants, I kept in SCI because SCI is great for all hair types and typically seems to be in every shampoo bar I've seen. I also kept in the SLSa, which I could of swapped out for more SCI, but I wanted to keep the recipe some what similar, since I added in a lot of new ingredients.


Formula;

30% SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate Fine Granular)

30.5% SLSa (Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate Powder)

1% essential oil


Directions;

  • Start by weighing out the SCI and cocamidopropyl betaine in a heat safe beaker. (Make sure you are wearing a respirator when working with powder surfactants)

  • Place the beaker in a water bath to dissolve the SCI in the cocamidopropyl betaine.

  • Once SCI is dissolved, weigh the BTMS 50 and stearic acid in a separate beaker and place in water bath to melt.

  • While the BTMS 50 and stearic acid are melting grab a bowl to weigh out the SLSa and sodium lactate. (make sure you are wearing a respirator) This is also the time I like to add in mica powder for color.

  • Pour the SCI mixture into the bowl with the SLSa/sodium lactate and mix.

  • Once it's all combined add in the rest of your ingredients including the melted BTMS 50 & stearic acid

  • Mix everything together until well combine

  • Let your mixture sit for a bit to harden. Once the mixture is at the point where you can mold it with your hands without it sticking to your gloves, its ready!

  • Pack your mixture in a mold or use a pressing mold (like I did in the video)

  • Place your shampoo bars in the freezer for 1-2 hours and then let sit for 24 hours.

Note; After 24 hours, mine were still a little soft, but definitely usable. The longer you let them sit the harder they will become because the water in them will dissolve. (ps. just because the water dissolves it doesn't mean the benefits from the lovely water soluble ingredients go away)


Benefits/Purpose of each ingredient

SCI - top performing specialty anionic powder surfactant made from all vegetable, renewable resources. It is used to impart extra mildness, good after feel , and good foaming. Is great for all hair types. (I literally see this ingredient in every shampoo bar, except for LUSH's, but we aren't going to get into that right now.) (ph: 4.5 to 7) (Ecocert)

cocamidopropyl betaine - liquid amphoteric surfactant that provides excellent wetting, and gives good lather and foam. amphoteric surfactants are good for dry hair types, which is why I included it as my liquid surfactant. (ph: 5 - 6) (Ecocert)

SLSa - is a top performing, sulfate free gentle powder surfactant, derived from sustainable feed stocks. Excellent replacement for Sodium lauryl Sulfate. SLSa conforms to Ecocert natural and organic cosmetic standard. (ph: 6.3)

BTMS 50 - cationic surfactant. A conditioning agent to help moisturizer and detangle hair.

stearic acid - functions as a protective conditioner that helps to leave the hair feeling soft, light, and lustrous. It helps harden the bar and doesn't reduce foam. You could use cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, or behenyl alcohol instead.

sodium lactate liquid - natural humectant, moisturizer and pH regulator produced from renewable non-animal, plant derived resources; namely vegetable sugars from corn and beets. It is even biodegradable. It is used to help harden the shampoo bar. Can't be substituted

hydrolyzed wheat protein - unique hydrating complex offering a combination of moisture-balancing and film-forming properties that work synergistically to give hair better body and control, increased shine and highlights.

dl panthenol - it’s a film former that increases shine while hydrating the hair strand to be more elastic, more manageable, and healthier. It can thicken the hair shaft, making hair appear thicker.

vegekeratin - is a vegetable alternative to animal keratin. It increases hair strength, enhances elasticity, helps protect hair from harsh salon processes, makes hair look more healthy and shiny, and improves the comb-ability of hair.

neossance hemisqualane - ecocert natural alternative to silicone. helps reduces frizz, protects hair from color degradation, helps seal down cuticles and restores more natural structure of hair, provides heat protection, provides lubricity on hair allowing easier combing, enhanced manageability and flexibility, improves elasticity, strengthens the hair and prevents breakage.

Liquid germall plus - broad spectrum preservative

essential oil - add's fragrance to shampoo bar.


Exact Recipe I used; makes 250 grams (about 4 bars)





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