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Peach Essence (exclusive)

I've recently learned a lot about essences and I really wanted to make one. So I bought a bunch of ingredients to do so and this is my first attempt at making one. I've never used a few of these ingredients so I was super excited to give this a try. But, first I wanna talk about what makes an essence different from a toner.

Essences are the newest addition to the toner family. Essences got popular due to k beauty and are uniquely Korean. I thought I understood essences, but as I was doing research for my toner video I found that there is much more to these than I thought. There are two types of essences. The first preps your skin. You use it after cleansing and its water based which preps your skin for better absorption of other products. It also usually has a high concentration of fermented ingredients. (this is the type I'm making) The second type is a toner and serum like hybrid. It can target specific skin concerns while also keeping your skin hydrated. Essences usually contain galactomyces or saccharomyces ferment filtrate, which are yeast-based filtrates that help address a lot of skin concerns; oiliness, acne, uneven texture and premature aging.

After cleansing your skin it's in its most vulnerable state. This essence will help replenish your skin of moisture and hydration while also delivering vital nutrients, vitamins, and fermented ingredients to the skin.


How to use: Pour a small amount into the palm of your hand, rub your hands together and pat into skin until dry. Once dry follow with your normal skincare routine.

  • Helps prime and prep skin after cleanser.

  • Adds an extra layer of hydration.

  • Anti aging.

  • Primes and preps skin after cleansing

  • Hydrates and moisturizes

  • Can be used in the AM and PM after cleansing on dry skin.

  • Can be used by all skin types.

Formula;

phase A

  • 10% propanediol

  • 0.05% ULMW hyaluronic acid

  • 1% geogard ECT

phase B

  • 76.25% distilled water

  • 3% saccharomyces ferment

  • 2% quanternized rice

  • 0.5% wakame bioferment advanced

  • 2% vegetable collagen

  • 2% niacinamide

  • 2% DL panthenol

  • 1% organic peach juice powder

  • 0.2% sodium carbomer

Directions;

  • Combine all ingredients in phase A and mix. Set aside

  • in another beaker combine all ingredients in phase B, adding in the sodium carbomer last. Make sure all powdered ingredients are dissolved before adding in the sodium carbomer.

  • mix until sodium carbomer is completely dissolved. Product should be a thin gel once the sodium carbomer is dissolved. If not then the pH may need to be raised to 6 and then the carbomer will need added again. (account this into the formula for future attempts) If the product does gel you should still check and adjust pH if needed. Keep the pH around 6.

pH adjusting; natural pH was around 5 which was too low and my sodium carbomer did not gel. I had to raise the pH to 6 and then ad in the sodium carbomer again. This will throw off my formula a bit, but since it's such a small amount it will be fine. Plus it's just me using the product. I'll account for this in future attempts.


Benefits/Purpose of each ingredient

propanediol - humectant that hydrates skin

ULMW hyaluronic acid - plumps skin, hydrates skin, reduces fine lines & wrinkles, and is naturally found in skin.

geogard ECT - ecocert approved preservative. Has a strong scent of almond. smells good, but important to consider

saccharomyces ferment - a potent anti-aging ingredient, Increase Cell Respiration, Increase Cell Metabolism. increasing the production of structural proteins such as collagen and elastin.

quanternized rice - helps lock in moisture. Moisturizing and conditioning

wakame bioferment advanced- a unique active derived from cultured wakame cells. Wakame is a species of seaweed (Undaria pinnatifida) that is considered to be a potent ingredient for purifying and fortifying the body in many Asian. Anti-aging and helps increases oxygen consumption, while simultane­ously reducing the formation of reactive oxygen species to increase overall mitochondrial efficiency. Mitochondrial plays a vital role in the skin and mitochondrial dysfunction induces skin aging. Wakame Bioferment is said to help reduce mitochondrial leakage.

vegetable collagen - plant derived alternative, anti aging, improves skins elasticity.

DL panthenol - improves skins hydration elasticity and appearance. hydrates and moisturizes skin. soothes skin. prevents trans epidermal water loss.

niacinamide - vitamin B3, minimizes appearance of pores, evens skin tone, brightens skin, reduces inflammation, enhances overall appearance of skin.

organic peach juice powder - has a slight scent of peaches.

sodium carbomer - pre-neutralized synthetic polymer, gels & thickens water.


Substitutions;

substituting ingredients will change the final feel, viscosity, and overall effect of final product. percentages and formulating procedure may need to change with substitutions. these substitution suggestions are just suggestions and have not been tested to work.

  • propanediol - glycerin, propylene glycol

  • ULMW hyaluronic acid - any hyaluronic acid should work, but keep in mind that the higher the weight of HA the more it will thicken the product. You could try using a high molecular weight HA instead of carbomer too. You could also just leave this out.

  • geogard ECT - any water soluble preservative active in a pH of 6. Liquid germall plus, Tirstate Eco, optiphen plus, etc

  • saccharomyces ferment - galactomyces or any other type of saccharomyces ferment. I seen FSS sells a few different kind. You could also use any ferment ingredient instead, but the galactomyces and saccharomyces are important to korean essences.

  • quanternized rice - any conditioning ingredient. Honeyquat, rice protein, baobab protein, etc

  • wakame bioferment advanced- any fermented ingredient would be a good alternative. FSS sells a bunch. You could also use an extract instead, but I think adding in fermented ingredients or ingredients like seaweed or rice, things popular in Korea, are important to use that way you keep with the theme of a Korean toner. Ginger and ginseng extract are popular extracts in essences you could use instead of this.

  • vegetable collagen - any other water soluble collagen ingredient like FSS Collagen Amino Acids PF or FSS Marine Collagen PF

  • DL panthenol - no sub. could add in an extra humectant.

  • niacinamide - no sub

  • organic peach juice powder - you can leave out or use a different fruit powder

  • sodium carbomer - xanthan gum, sepimax zen, caesalpinia spinosa gum, or other gum/gelling agent.




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