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Neapolitan Ice Cream Foaming Sugar Scrub

Formula;

phase A

  • 5% Glycerin

  • 4% Distilled Water

phase B

  • 11.5% SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate)

  • 3% Cocamidopropyl Betaine

phase C

  • 10% Stearic Acid

phase D

  • 0.5% liquid germall plus

  • 1% fragrance oil

  • 65% white granulated sugar

Directions;

  • combine all ingredients in phase A in a heat safe beaker. gently mix and set to the side.

  • put on a respirator and combine both ingredients in phase B in a separate heat safe beaker. Be gentle while mixing and try not to make the SCI go every where. If needed add in a bit of phase A into phase B until you get a hard putty texture(see video) it will be hard to mix, be patient.

  • in a heat safe glass bowl add in phase C

  • place phase A back on the scale and take note of how much it weighs. We will be heating it and some of the water will evaporate. So we will need to replace that after it's done heating.

  • using a water bath heat phase A, B, & C until stearic acid is fully melted and phase A & B are around the same temperature. You will need to come back periodically and mix phase B to help soften it.

  • once the stearic acid is melted and everything is around the same temperature you can remove everything from the heat. Don't forget to weigh phase A and replace any water that has evaporated.

  • first combine phase A and C and mix with a whisk then add in phase B.

  • phase B was hard for me to scoop out of the beaker and it was pretty difficult to get it to mix in with phase A/C. I used a whisk to mix it in and I just kept mixing until phase B eventually melted in with everything else. once it was melted in I used an electric hand mixer. At this time it will look like fluffy mashed potatoes.

  • let return to room temperature. at this time it will be pretty hard, but now we can start adding in the phase D ingredients

  • I added in the liquid germall plus and mixed it in

  • Then I added in a little bit of sugar at a time until it was fully mixed in. At this point I started using my hands to mix in the sugar which made it so much easier.

  • Now you can divide your scrub into 3 separate bowls. I added chocolate fragrance oil to one, strawberry fragrance oil to another, & vanilla fragrance oil to the other one.

  • I used a pink mica powder from madmica.com called ballet slippers to color the strawberry one pink. I mixed the mica powder in with my hands.

  • I used summer bronze and tall dark and handsome to color the chocolate one brown. I mix the mica powder in with my hands. I only added in a bit of mica at a time until I got the color I wanted.

  • Then I left the vanilla one white. I didn't need to add any coloring to make it white.

  • After that I covered all of the scrubs and let them sit over night.

  • The next day you can scoop your scrubs separately, mix them together and scoop them together. Whatever you want to do. I recommend watching my video to see how mine turned out.

pH adjusting; I did not check or adjust the pH. The SCI I used has a pH of around 4.7 - 6 & coco betaine has a pH of around 5 - 6 so I'm not worried about this products pH being too high.


Benefits/Purpose of each ingredient

cocamidopropyl betaine - amphoteric liquid surfactant. creates lather and foam. Coco betaine pairs really well with SCI and it's my favorite amphoteric surfactant

SCI (sodium cocoyl isethionats) - anionic powder surfactant. creates lather and foam.

glycerin - humectant that hydrates the skin.

distilled water - along with glycerin it acts as the liquid base for the scrub. helps with mixing the ingredients together. with out the water and glycerin the stearic acid would harden up when trying to mix phase B into the melted stearic acid.

Stearic Acid - hardener

liquid germall plus - preservative


Substitutions;

substituting ingredients will change the final feel, viscosity, and overall effect of final product. percentages and formulating procedure may need to change with substitutions. these substitution suggestions are just suggestions and have not been tested to work.

  • cocamidopropyl betaine - try any other liquid amphoteric surfactant like Lauramidopropyl Betaine or Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate

  • SCI (sodium cocoyl isethionats - Not sure. Maybe a different powder surfactant like SLSA, but I'm really not sure. It needs to be a powder surfactant.

  • glycerin - propanedial, propylene glycol, or butylene glycol would probably work.

  • Stearic Acid - emulsifying wax NF or another hardener like cetyl alcohol but you may need to do some experiments to find the right percentage.

  • liquid germall plus - any water soluble broad spectrum preservative. Optiphen plus, Tristate ECO, geogard ECT, euxyl K 903, etc. (be aware that euxyl k 903 can not be in a pH over 6, so you will have to make sure the pH is not above 6)

  • white granulated sugar - no sub. I think salt would be way to harsh.



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