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How to Make Scoopable Mango Papaya Sugar Scrub - Ecocert Compliant Recipe

Formula;

phase A

  • 4.4% Distilled Water

phase B

  • 2% SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate)

  • 12% Cocamidopropyl Betaine

  • 6% Glycerin

phase C

  • 4% RitaMulse SCG

  • 3% Stearic Acid

  • 4% Papaya Oil

  • 2% Mango Butter

phase D

  • 0.5% Tristate ECO

  • 1% Mango Papaya Fragrance Oil

  • 61.1% white granulated sugar

Similar jar on amazon (exact one is sold out)

You can buy in Bulk Here


Directions;

  • Weigh out the water in phase A in a heat safe beaker. Tare scale and take note of how much it weighs. We will be heating it up and some will evaporate so we will need to replace that water after it's been heated.

  • Put on a respirator and weigh out all the ingredients in phase B. Gently mix in the SCI powder and try to keep it from going airborne. You do not want to breath this stuff in!

  • In a heat safe mixing bowl combine all the ingredients in phase C.

  • Fill a pan (I had to use two) with about an inch or so of water, depending on how big your containers are and place each phase into the water to heat. Let heat until phase C is all melted and all phases are around the same temperature.

  • Once phase C is melted and everything is around the same temperature, remove phase A, weigh it, and add back in any water that evaporated.

  • Now you can remove all phases from heat.

  • Start by pouring phase A into phase C and hand mix until combined.

  • Then you can pour phase B into phase A/C and mix with a whisk again. I tried using a powered hand mixer, but it wasn't necessary. Hand mixing with a whisk is all you really need.

  • Once it cools to 100°F / 40°C you can start adding in the phase D ingredients.

  • I began by adding in the fragrance oil and mixing it in until combined.

  • Then I added in the sugar and mixed until combined. (I like to add a little sugar at a time and mix before adding more. It makes it easier to mix)

  • If you want two different colors, then now is the time to separate the scrub equally into two separate bowls and add in the coloring for each scrub. I used this orange mica powder for one and this yellow mica powder for the other.

  • I covered both scrubs and let them sit overnight before jarring up the scrub.

  • I layered both the yellow and orange in my jars. See video

pH adjusting; I did not check or adjust the pH. The SCI I used has a pH of around 4.7 - 6 & coco betaine has a pH of around 5 - 6 so I'm not worried about this products pH being too high.


Benefits/Purpose of each ingredient

Cocamidopropyl Betaine - amphoteric liquid surfactant. creates lather and foam. Coco betaine pairs really well with SCI and it's my favorite amphoteric surfactant

SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate) - anionic powder surfactant. creates lather and foam.

Glycerin - humectant that hydrates the skin.

distilled water - along with glycerin it acts as the liquid base for the scrub. Also having some water in the formula helps with lather.

RitaMulse SCG - ecocert emulsifier

Stearic Acid - hardener

Papaya Oil - emollient (high in vitamins A, C, & E. helps firm skin remove blemishes and even skin tone)

Mango Butter - emollient, replenishes, moisturizes, and softens skin


Substitutions;

substituting ingredients will change the final feel, viscosity, and overall effect of final product. percentages and formulating procedure may need to change with substitutions. these substitution suggestions are just suggestions and have not been tested to work.

  • cocamidopropyl betaine - try any other liquid amphoteric surfactant like Lauramidopropyl Betaine or Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate

  • SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate) - Not sure. Maybe a different powder surfactant like SLSA, but I'm really not sure. It needs to be a powder surfactant.

  • glycerin - propanedial, propylene glycol, or butylene glycol would probably work.

  • RitaMulse SCG - emulsifying wax NF, Olivem 1000, or other waxy emulsifier

  • Stearic Acid - another hardener like cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, but you may need to do some experiments to find the right percentage.

  • Papaya Oil - any other oil of choice

  • Mango Butter - any butter of choice, but shea butter is the closest to mango butter.

  • Tristate ECO - any water soluble broad spectrum preservative, optiphen, optiphen plus, liquid germall plus, euxyl PE 9010, etc. If you want an ecocert one check blog here.

  • white granulated sugar - salt could work, jojoba beads, jojoba pearls, bamboo stem powder, or other exfoliant




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