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How to make Scoopable Foaming Scrubs

Updated: Dec 9, 2024

Formula;

phase A

  • 12% cocamidopropyl betaine

  • 6% glycerin

  • 2% SCI (sodium cocoyl isethionate)

phase B

  • 5.5% distilled water

phase C

  • 1% emulsifying wax NF

  • 5% oil (I used sunflower oil)

  • 5% polysorbate 80

  • 2% shea butter

phase D

  • 0.5% liquid germall plus

  • 1% fragrance oil

  • 60% white granulated sugar

Directions;

  • combine all ingredients in phase A in a heat safe beaker. gently mix in the SCI. It will not dissolve until we heat it.

  • weigh the water out in phase B.

  • tare scale and take note of how much phase B weighs. we will be heating it up and some of the water will evaporate, so that will need replaced once it's done heating.

  • combine all ingredients in phase C

  • place phase A, B and C in a water bath and heat until everything in phase C is melted and the SCI is fully dissolved in phase A.

  • once everything is melted in phase C and the SCI is dissolved in phase A take all the phases off of the heat. Phase A should be clear.

  • pour phase B into phase A and gently mix to combine. (try not to produce any lather)

  • then pour phase A/B into phase C and mix by hand until combined. It will turn into a really thin icing texture.

  • add in mica powder if desired.

  • let cool to room temperature and then add in all the ingredients in the cool down phase.

  • mix by hand until sugar is fully mixed in and then give it a quick mix with a hand mixer and let it sit overnight before jarring up the scrub.

  • the next day you should be able to scoop the scrub using an ice cream scoop.

pH adjusting; I actually didn't think about checking the pH of scrub. Probably has a pH between 5-6.



Benefits/Purpose of each ingredient

cocamidopropyl betaine - amphoteric liquid surfactant. creates lather and foam. Also when cocamidopropyl betaine and SCI are combined they thicken. So the combination of this surfactant with SCI powder creates a bit of viscosity for the scrub.

SCI (sodium cocoyl isethionats - anionic powder surfactant. creates lather and foam. when SCI and cocamidopropyl betaine are combined they thicken. This helps create a bit of viscosity for the scrub. It's important to note that I am using less SCI and more cocamidopropyl betaine. This will create a clear gel rather than a cream. SCI and cocamidopropyl betaine will become creamy if you use more SCI than coco betaine. Make sure you check what each surfactants active surfactant matter is and use that to make sure you are using more coco betaine than SCI. I talk about this in this video here

glycerin - humectant that hydrates the skin.

distilled water - helps keep the scrub thinner and also helps with lather and I like the texture more when I use water. I also noticed when I don't use water the scrub can be a bit harder to get to lather.

emulsifying wax NF - helps mix oil and water together and adds viscosity to the scrub

sunflower oil - emollient that moisturizes the skin. adding in oil helps lower the percentage of water in the formula which helps prevent sugar from dissolving in the water.

polysorbate 80 - helps mix oil and water. using polysorbate 80 allows me to use less emulsifying wax NF keeping the scrub thinner. It also helps with wash off and spreadability.

shea butter - moisturizes skin. adds a small bit of viscosity and helps keep the percentage of water lower.

liquid germall plus - preservative


Substitutions;

substituting ingredients will change the final feel, viscosity, and overall effect of final product. percentages and formulating procedure may need to change with substitutions. these substitution suggestions are just suggestions and have not been tested to work.

  • cocamidopropyl betaine - I'm honestly not sure. You will need a liquid surfactant that thickens when combined with SCI. lauramidopropyl betaine might work. I'm not sure. The only reason I'm suggesting it is because the name is similar and it's also amphoteric.

  • SCI (sodium cocoyl isethionats - Not really sure. Maybe a different powder surfactant like SLSA, but I'm really not sure. It needs to be a powder surfactant that thickens when combined with an amphoteric surfactant.

  • glycerin - propanedial, propylene glycol, or butylene glycol would probably work.

  • emulsifying wax NF - ritamulse SCG, olivem 1000, or another waxy emulsifier that isn't cationic. So BTMS 50 will not work. You will need to increase the percentage if you use ritamulse SCG or olivem 1000.

  • sunflower oil - any plant oil should work. olive oil, safflower oil, apricot kernel oil, etc.

  • polysorbate 80 - polysorbate 20 should work. You may also be able to leave it out if you use ritamulse SCG instead. Try about 4% - 5% ritamulse SCG

  • shea butter - mango butter or cocoa butter. Using a harder butter like cocoa butter will increase hardness of scrub.

  • liquid germall plus - any water soluble broad spectrum preservative. Tristate ECO, geogard ECT, euxyl K 903, etc. (be aware that euxyl k 903 can not be in a pH over 6, so you will have to make sure the pH is not above 6)

  • white granulated sugar - exfoliant




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