How to Make Cherry Rose Milky Cleanser
- taralee
- Sep 29, 2023
- 4 min read
Formula;
phase A
45% distilled water
10% rose hydrosol
phase B
10% glycerin
1% xanthan gum soft
phase C
3% olivem 1000
4% rosehip seed oil
3% evening primrose oil
phase D
2% FSS Acerola BioFerment
1% Organic Cherry Juice FD
0.5% SuperScents Cherry
10% coco glucoside
10% foaming apple
0.5% liquid germall plus
300 gram recipe;
phase A
135 grams distilled water
30 grams rose hydrosol
phase B
30 grams glycerin
3 grams xanthan gum soft
phase C
9 grams olivem 1000
12 grams rosehip seed oil
9 grams evening primrose oil
phase D
6 grams FSS Acerola BioFerment
3 grams Organic Cherry Juice FD
30 grams coco glucoside
30 grams foaming apple
1.5 grams liquid germall plus
1.5 grams SuperScents Cherry
Directions;
Combine both ingredients in phase A in a heat safe container and combine both ingredients in phase B together.
Pour phase B into phase A and mix. You'll notice the solution will thicken.
Tare scale and weigh your phase A/B solution and write down how much it weighs. We will be heating it up and some of the water will evaporate so you will need to weight the phase A/B beaker again after heating to add back in any water that evaporates.
In another heat safe container combine all ingredients in phase C.
Cover phase C with some aluminum foil and cover phase A/B with aluminum foil. Fill a pan with about an inch or so of water and place over a stove top on medium high heat (if water starts boiling then lower the temperature. You don't want it boiling causing water to go everywhere and the beakers to move around)
Place both of your beakers (A/B & C) into the pan with water. (this is called a water bath) & let heat until everything in phase C is melted and phase A/B are around the same temperature. Does not need to be exact same temperature.
Once phase A/B and C are done being heated don't forget to weigh the phase A/B and replace any water.
Then you can remove phase C from heat and pour the phase A/B into phase C.
Immediately mix with an immersion blender.
Let cool to room temperature.
While cooling we can weigh out phase D.
Start with combining the FSS Acerola BioFerment & Organic Cherry Juice FD. You want to mix these two together until the cherry juice powder dissolves. (It might not dissolve completely. This is fine)
Then you can add in the rest of the ingredients mixing in between each one.
Be gentle while mixing. Foaming apple and coco glucoside are foaming surfactants and you want to avoid making these lather.
Once phase A/B/C are cooled then you can pour in the phase D ingredients and mix.
At this time you can check and adjust the pH.
Let sit over night and bottle up the next day. (I like to let it sit overnight to let the lather settle)
pH adjusting; natural pH of 7.95 & used a few drops of a 50% citric acid and 50% distilled water solution to get the pH down to 5.42. You want a pH between 4.5-5.5
Benefits/Purpose of each ingredient
rose hydrosol - adds a scent of roses and fits the cherry rose story.
glycerin - humectant that hydrates the skin. In this formula it is being mixed with the xanthan gum soft to help prevent clumping. Xanthan gum clumps when it comes into contact with water. So if we mix it with glycerin first it helps prevent the clumping.
xanthan gum soft - thickener and emulsion stabilizer.
olivem 1000 - emulsifier (blends oil and water together)
rosehip seed oil - adds to the "rose" story of the milky cleanser and overall is an amazing oil for the skin. It contains trans-retinoic acid which is a natural form of vitamin A naturally found in rosehip seed oil. Vitamin -A has been found to help treat acne along with signs of aging.
evening primrose oil - adds to the "rose" story of the milky cleanser. This oil is said to help promote healther clearer and rejuvenated skin.
FSS Acerola BioFerment - fermented cherries high in antioxidants. Helps promote and bright, healthy, and radiant complexion.
Organic Cherry Juice FD - a freeze dried juice powder that can be dissolved into water and used in cosmetics. Cherries are said to be high in antioxidants and vitamins A,B, & C
SuperScents Cherry - a scented cherry extract. Smells so good and the scent is a powerful scent. You don't need to use a lot.
coco glucoside - non ionic foaming surfactant. It's one of my favorite surfactants for cleansers. It's a gentle ecocert approved surfactant with a high pH. So be sure to lower the pH when you use this stuff or else the cleanser won't feel gentle.
foaming apple - anionic foaming surfactant. Helps cleanse the skin.
liquid germall plus - preservative for aqueous formulas
Substitutions;
substituting ingredients will change the final feel, viscosity, and overall effect of final product. percentages and formulating procedure may need to change with substitutions. these substitution suggestions are just suggestions and have not been tested to work.
rose hydrosol - leave out. use distilled water in place. If you want a rose scent you can add in a rose fragrance oil if you want. I would use about 0.2% but I don't personally like to use fragrance oils in face care products. So it's up to you.
olivem 1000 - you can try ritamulse SCG / ecomulse, emulsifying wax NF, or another nonionic or anionic waxy emulsifier. I'm not sure how it will turn out. You will need to do some experiments.
rosehip seed oil - any oil of choice
evening primrose oil - any oil of choice
FSS Acerola BioFerment - no sub, but you can leave out or use another water soluble ingredient or any other fermented water soluble ingredient like FSS Saccharomyces Ferment
Organic Cherry Juice FD - no sub, but you can leave out.
SuperScents Cherry - no sub. unless you want to use a cherry fragrance oil
coco glucoside - decyl glucoside or another surfactant of your liking.
foaming apple - any surfactant of choice. I'd probably use cocamidopropyl betaine.
liquid germall plus - euxyl k 903, euxyl PE 9010, or other water soluble preservative of choice
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