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Coffee Under Eye Cream

Updated: May 16, 2022

All ingredients in this formula are naturally derived or Ecocert approved.


Formula;

phase A

phase B

phase C

Directions;

  • combine glycerin and xanthan gum soft in phase A and mix then pour into distilled water. (use heat safe container)

  • combine all ingredients in phase B in a separate heat safe container

  • tare scale and weight phase A. write down weight.

  • place phase phase A and B into a water bath and heat until phase B melts and phase A is around the same temperature (doesn't need to be exact)

  • once both phases are heated, tare scale and weight phase A again and replace any water that evaporated. (usually it's around 1 gram, could be more or less for you though)

  • pour phase A into phase B and immediately mix with an immersion blender.

  • come back and mix periodically as it cools. once it thickens, don't mix with immersion blender anymore.

  • once it cools to 100°f or under you can start adding in phase C

  • combine glycerin and ULMW in phase C and mix then add in the rest of phase C and mix.

  • pour phase C into moisturizer and mix.

  • check and adjust ph.

the natural pH of this eye cream was around 4.57. Our skins natural pH is between 4.5 - 5.5 So we typically want a ph somewhere in between there, but you also need to take into consideration what pH your ingredients are active in. The regu-age PF needs to be in a pH between 5-8 so that means we need a ph between 5 - 5.5. Watch the video here to learn how to raise the ph of your products. I ended up needing 6 drops of the 10% sodium hydroxide solution to get the pH to 5.40


Benefits/Purpose of each ingredient

glycerin - humectant that hydrates the skin and helps hydrate the xanthan gum and ULMW hyaluronic acid

xanthan gum soft - helps stabilize emulsion

coffee butter - smells like coffee and is made from real coffee seed oil. has excellent spreadability and pairs perfectly with caffeine extract

apricot kernel oil - moisturizes skin

montanov 68 MB - ecocert, nonionic emulsifier which may help actives better penetrate the skin.

cetyl alcohol - fatty alcohol used as an emulsion stabilizer and opacifier. helps thicken lotions and creams and improves texture and feel. is also an emollient that moisturizes the skin.

caffeine extract - can help tighten and brighten under eyes and can help reduce puffiness and dark circles.

ULMW hyaluronic acid - penetrates into the skin deeper. so you get more benefits out of this HA vs the HMW HA. HA helps hydrate and plump the skin.

regu-age PF - is a blend of soybean protein, rice protein and Superoxide Dismutase. helps reduce dark circle, eye bags, puffiness, protects collagen, reduces inflammation and prevents UV damage

euxyl k 903 - ecocert approved preservative


Substitutions;

substituting ingredients will change the final feel, viscosity, and overall effect of final product. percentages and formulating procedure may need to change with substitutions.

  • glycerin - propanedial, propylene glycol or other humectant

  • ULMW hyaluronic acid - no sub, but you can leave out

  • coffee butter -any other butter of choice. I'd say shea butter is the closest in texture

  • apricot kernel oil - any oil of choice or emollient ester

  • montanov 68 MB - ritamulse SCG/ecomulse, emulsifying wax NF or any other all in one waxy emulsifier

  • cetyl alcohol - cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid, behenyl alcohol or other fatty acid or fatty alcohol.

  • regu-age PF - no sub

  • caffeine extract - caffeine liposome or you can use cucumber extract. it isn't similar to caffeine extract, but it's great for under eyes.

  • euxyl k 903 - any water soluble preservative; e.g. liquid germall plus, optiphen plus, euxyl PE 9010, geogard ECT, Tristate Eco, etc. (follow suggested usage rate)







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