BTMS 50 (Ingredient Encyclopedia)
- taralee
- Jan 31, 2024
- 3 min read
BTMS 50 is a Conditioning/Detangling All-in-one Emulsifier that comes in white pellets with a fishy odor that doesn’t come through in the final product. Since it’s an emulsifier it blends oil and water together. BTMS 50 is oil soluble and is added into the heated oil phase. Use in lotions to make a powdery velvety-soft moisturizer, or use in hair conditioners to make the conditioner of your dreams. Can also be used to make Leave-in Conditioners, Shaving Creams, Conditioner Bars, Lotions Bars, & Shaving Bars.
INCI; Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetyl Alcohol (and) Butylene Glycol
Skin & Hair Benefits - Conditioning, Softening, Smoothing, Hydrating, Moisturizing, Detangles Hair, De-frizz.
What products to use it in - Hair Conditioners, Hair Masks, Leave-in Conditioners, Shaving Products, Lotions, Creams, Moisturizers, Bars, & so much more.
Why you would use in a product - You would use it to blend your oil and water ingredients together to make a lotion or a hair conditioner. BTMS 50 is different from other emulsifiers because it is cationic and conditions hair. So it helps make conditioners that make your hair soft, smooth, and easy to brush through. It also makes beautiful lotions that feel velvety-soft on the skin. It also makes creams that are perfect for shaving because BTMS 50 resists wash off (due to it being cationic) it helps the razor glide onto the skin and keeps the skin soft and smooth while shaving.
Solubility - Oil Soluble
Usage Rate - 1-10% up to 25%
Rinse off Conditioners or Lotions 1-10%
Solid Conditioner Bars or Lotion Bars 1-20%
Leave in Conditioners 1-6%
Charge - Cationic Surfactant
Must know! - Since this ingredient is Cationic it can not be used with Anionic Ingredients.
How to Formulate with it - Add into heated oil phase
pH as supplied - 5 - 7
pH it’s stable in - 3 - 6
Appearance - White Pellet - Fishy Smell
Shelf Life - 2 years (check with your supplier)
Heat Sensitive? - No
Vegan? - Yes
Ecocert? - Nope
Cosmos? - Nope
Natural? - Nope
Emulsions - Add into the heated water phase. Mix periodically until it is fully melts. Can take a little longer to melt compared to other all-in-one emulsifiers, but as long as you give it a mix every once in a while, while it’s melting, there is no issues.
Watery Solutions (Toners, Essences, Serums, Cleansers/Washes) - Isn’t used in these types of products. Although you could use it to make a liquid-thin emulsion (use at around 2%) with a small amount of oil(3%) and pour it into a spray bottle for a spray on leave in conditioner/detangler. You would add the BTMS 50 to the heated oil phase and make it the same way you would, any other emulsion.
Personal Opinion - I absolutely love BTMS 50. It is my go to cationic emulsifier for hair conditioners, Hair Masks, Deep Conditioners, Shaving Creams, Conditioner Bars, Shaving Bars. It’s a must have ingredient in my collection. I do notice it takes a little longer to melt compared to other all-in-one emulsifiers, but as long as you give it a mix every once in a while, while it’s melting, there is no issues.
Substitutions - Varisoft EQ 65 (this also works as an Ecocert alternative) Link to video comparing BTMS 50 to Varisoft EQ 65
Known Irritations or Side Effects - No known side effects, but if burning, irritation, stinging, or redness occurs when using this ingredient discontinue use.
FDA Regulations - There are no regulations for this ingredient. Just use it within the safe amount.
How it’s Sourced - “Behentrimonium Methosulfate is made by collecting rapeseed oil and extracting erucic acid. This undergoes hydrogenation and chemical reaction to become behentrimonium methosulfate.” - Source
“Cetyl Alcohol is made from palm oil. It undergoes a chemical reaction to release free fatty acids like palmitic acid. This mixture is distilled to separate palmitic acid, where it is converted to cetyl alcohol.” - Source
“Butylene glycol is an organic alcohol, or diol, derived from distilled corn, petroleum, and sugarcane. It is a colorless, viscous, water-soluble liquid that many manufacturers add to skin care products.” - Source
Where to purchase BTMS 50;
For a full list of suppliers click here
Best price in the US I found for BTMS 50; NaturalBulkSupplies.com & ScentedExpressions.com
ScentedExpressions.com $6.90 for 8 oz + $9.75 shipping (Shipping is just for this item)
NaturalBulkSupplies.com $9.50 for 8 oz + $9.72 shipping (Shipping is just for this item)
*Shipping price will vary depending on location.
*Even with shipping cost these two places are a lot cheaper than other website.
*Wait until you need multiple ingredients from a website so the shipping cost average is cheaper.
Sources;
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